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Old 10-14-2012, 08:32 PM   #1
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16 Valve Not Getting Fuel In 1 Cylinder

As the title says i don t think I m getting fuel in #3 cylinder. A little back ground.....I was wheeeling last night trying to climb a steep hill I believe I was low on gas. It started cutting like a dead plug or out of gas. Filled it up figuring maybe I picked something up off bottom of tank. I got a little concerned so changed all plugs & I did a compression test on #3 it was 185. I determined it was #3 by pulling plug wires 1 @ a time. It ran different when I pulled every wire except #3. The plug is not wet w/gas & it does have fire. No fuel in oil. So I guess my question is could I have lost an injector(or dirty) or am I missing something more or less? This has been in my sammy for over 3 years & never had any problems. Thanks in advance for all help.
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:33 PM   #2
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just a shot in the dark, but I wonder if they will pump air if they run out of fuel, then the air blocks the injector until it works back out?
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:03 AM   #3
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Same question my father in law asked. Idk. Anybody know?
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:26 AM   #4
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dichdoc is having the opposite problem with an injector, his is overfueling, maybe read that and see if you can see how to test the injector to help your situation. His post is titled "fuel injectors???"
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:37 AM   #5
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Yes they will have to pump air out of the system, but it is very minimal (the very short distance between the fuel rail, & the injector) I would first do as suggested in the other thread, & make sure the electronics are working properly by testing them with a noid light (special light for testing injector circuits. You can rent one at most chain parts houses. You just plug it in, in place of an injector, & watch it flash with the injector pulse) If the circuit is working properly (noid light flashes while engine is running) Then it's likely just a plugged injector. If light doesn't flash, then you have a wiring issue, & the troubleshooting process will be similar to the other thread.

Good luck.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:49 AM   #6
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Swap the #3 injector for one of the other 3 injectors and see if the condition stays at #3 or moves.
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:26 PM   #7
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I guess I ll find a noid light & check it. Thanks & I ll keep you posted.
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:03 PM   #8
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What everyone said. You'll work it. Time first,money later
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:42 AM   #9
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had same issue with my 16 v and prob was in the computer drawed moist.. Busted diodes and boardd.. Had fixed and runs like a champ..
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:55 AM   #10
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Im going to pull & clean injectors tonight. I m almost certain they are pulsating. I ll find out tonight. Is there anything special I need to know about doing this? Thanks again
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Old 10-18-2012, 11:02 AM   #11
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FWIW I bought a remaned injector from rock auto for $30.00 definately needed to replace all the o rings on the others too. But none of that was my problem!
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:09 PM   #12
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Mine did similar (pull plug and no difference) turned out to be a bad head gasket allowing water in and killing the spark.

My plug was wet though, but not much.
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:02 AM   #13
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Mine did similar (pull plug and no difference) turned out to be a bad head gasket allowing water in and killing the spark.

My plug was wet though, but not much.

I m hoping not the issue plug is definitely not wet w/gas or anything. Didnt have time last night going to try tonight. Is it even possible to have just 1 injector clogged? I m almost positive it s pulsing.
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:51 AM   #14
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It is possible to have just one clogged. ALMOST positive is not positive. Don't mean to sound harsh, but guessing at a condition will do yourself no help whatsoever.

Call your local autozone, oreillys, or any other chain partshouse. They will all have a noid light set in their rental selection. You simply unplug the suspected injector, plug the noid light in place of it, Start the engine, & watch the light either pulse, or not pulse. Simple, easy, & usually free (most of them return you 100% of the cost when you return the tool.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:00 AM   #15
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Injectors can develop internal varnish, this can get heavy enough to restrict the fuel enough to prevent combustion.

dont remove the rail with injectors and then turn the ignition on to test them, the fuel pressure will launch the injectors like a shotgun slug..............
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:43 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talonxracer View Post
dont remove the rail with injectors and then turn the ignition on to test them, the fuel pressure will launch the injectors like a shotgun slug..............
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:07 PM   #17
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I think I'm having the same problem. I did my 16v ('98 tracker 16v ODBII) swap 4 years ago and she's been fine ever since. Yesterday I was leaving a restaurant and came to a stop and she just starting running rough and died. I had to hold the throttle so she'd idle. She definitely feels like a piston isn't firing.

I pulled the codes and got a P0302 (cyl 2 misfire). Replaced all spark wires, rotor, cap, and just the no.2 spark plug. No change. I did pull the spark wire off No2 and could hear arching so I should have spark to the spark plug.


Guess I'll try the noid light, replace the fuel filter and pull the injectors if need be. I do have spares.

I have a scangauge 2 and I'm getting readings from everything the device is able to read from the ECM. TPS, map, O2 closed/open, coolant & air temp, ignition, etc etc and all is normal.
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Old 10-20-2012, 03:00 PM   #18
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Went to autozone and got a noid light tester ($25 deposit) and No2 injector is getting a pulse so I guess clogged or bad injector.

Also got a new fuel filter so I finally get to use my HF hose clamps. LOL
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Old 10-20-2012, 04:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jethrobodean View Post
It is possible to have just one clogged. ALMOST positive is not positive. Don't mean to sound harsh, but guessing at a condition will do yourself no help whatsoever.

Call your local autozone, oreillys, or any other chain partshouse. They will all have a noid light set in their rental selection. You simply unplug the suspected injector, plug the noid light in place of it, Start the engine, & watch the light either pulse, or not pulse. Simple, easy, & usually free (most of them return you 100% of the cost when you return the tool.
You are 100% correct I do not want to waste time & money replacing parts. I put a noid light(excellent & cheap tool) on all cylinders all are pulsating. I hate to assume BUT I m assuming it has to be injector (clogged or just no good). I ll pull out tomorrow. I ll let you know. Thanks again
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:57 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talonxracer View Post
Swap the #3 injector for one of the other 3 injectors and see if the condition stays at #3 or moves.
I would definitely try this now. (honestly would've probably tried it before too )

Once you pull them, an inspection should show some signs. If you can, get some good pictures, down into the supply side of the injectors. (As much a learning tool as actual help for you)
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:59 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rangerscott View Post
....I have a scangauge 2 and I'm getting readings from everything the device is able to read from the ECM. TPS, map, O2 closed/open, coolant & air temp, ignition, etc etc and all is normal.
This kind of surprises me. I would've thought an O2 code for sure (lean condition)
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Old 10-20-2012, 09:59 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by jethrobodean View Post
This kind of surprises me. I would've thought an O2 code for sure (lean condition)
I did get one for the second O2, but it was just loose wiring, fixed and still have the problem.

I got a misfire on No2 again so that's got to be the problem area. I pulled all the injectors and wired them to a 12v source so they would open, then put a tube on top of them, filled it with carb cleaner and sea foam, then blew it through the injectors.

Before I did the tube/blow trick, I just wired an injector up and then just filled up the top part with carb cleaner and hit the power and the carb cleaner would slowly drain out on 1, 3, & 4, but not 2, but 2 did flow when I did the blow trick. So I don't know. I really hope this fixes it. I really don't want it to be mechanical.
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:07 PM   #23
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You're on the right track. Rebuilding an injector really isn't that bad, if you're not looking to flow match or anything special. I have gotten a few kits from Dr. Injector IIRC. Price wasn't bad (~25-30$ again IIRC) Basically just replacing the sales & the internal filter. Won't fix a bad injector (bad coil) but will help a clogged one (do exactly as you just mentioned with the screen filter out ) back to life.
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:39 PM   #24
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Filters were clean as a whistle.

I'm trying not to spend money because I'm closing on a house. Definitely don't need this crap right now.

I have 4 spares. One was dead (made no clicks), and the three other would click, but carb cleaner wouldn't just run through when open. Had to blow the cleaner through.
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:24 PM   #25
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The injector swap helped some but the shaking is still there. Did a compression check and got this.

Cold

Cyl1 - 150
Cyl2 - 20
Cyl3 - 20
cyl4 - 130

On 2-3 I can hear the air escaping somewhere.
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