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Old 11-24-2010, 09:29 PM   #1
seb112
 
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DiY Yj swap 101

So first off, I am doing this thread to share my experience on my yj swap on my samurai

i will cover the basics up to what u need to buy with cost and everything

-First on the list is to actually get ur spring. Best option are Stock one ( non
lifted ) 5 packs front and 6 packs rear but, to be honest just get the
cheapest one u can find ( iv found mine for 40 $ )

U will need to get 8 times this, iv got my bro's wife to laser cut em for me cost me less then 10$ for all plates


-U will need to get good grade 8 bolts 9/16 for Yj aftermarket bushing and 1/2 for samurai bushing all 4'' long, with washer and nuts

-New u-bolts

-Spring plates, Since the yjs are wider than sami springs, you'll need new ones. The hole spacing is 3 1/8" squared. I used the old spring plates to mark the new one, then turned it 90* and marked it again. The plates are 4 3/4" square. with 1" x 4 3/4" strips welded and smoothed to add rigidity to the plates

-Spring Pad, I build the spring over pads out of 2''x4''x3/16'' tubing. Cut tube to 5'' long. Used 2 1/2'' hole saw and drilled through center, then cut with grinder right down the middle, and now I had two spring over pads. Or u can get trailer one for cheap too they will work

-Extension of brake lines, From the rear axle of a 1981 Toyota Corrola. Extension line has a female and a male end with correct flare had threads to fit the Samurai line. Extension is about 11'' long.
Those will work front and rear and are sell for about 15$ each

-Front Missing link, iv followed this to do mine http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=523

They need to have 5'' hole to hole and used stock shackle with missing link for the front
it should look like this
also u need to know if u want em to rest on your bumper or weld em, if u want to weld em look at http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=34247


-Rear shackle, I use a 5.5" hole to hole shackle, which leaves the shackle at a 50* angle at ride height. These need to be slightly bent to accommodate the difference in width between the yj springs and sami shackle hangers.
Should look like this


-For shocks u have many options and it is up to you to choose, i would go with the ones that lowrangeoffroad sell for pretty cheap and works pretty good

-Shocks tower, Ford tower is the cheapest 15$ each ( here a good link about those http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...ock-tower.html )

or u can get hoops from ZoR

be for welding ur choise to the frame make sure to plate it so u don't rip ur frame!! very important point

-Steering, There is many option u can get away with a Z bar

the cheapest option are Mercedes arms

-Drive line, there is also many option u can choose, either run a CV style drive-shaft, run spacers or a extended yoke
keep in mind that there will be vibration, it will never be as smooth as stock
For the rear the best option and cheapest is to go with 1'' spacer and 1'' extended yoke
For the front its the same or 2x 1'' spacers will work too

-U will need a track-bar to keep the axle wrap away, there is many option u can do, the cheapest thing iv found was to go at the local tractor and buy some rod-end weld a bracket on top the axle and on the cross member ( note that this wont work for every setup, this work perfectly for my buddy ( Quebecsamurai ) and work medium for me we both have yjs but difference setup so this varies from setup to setup


u can also add a 6th leaf to help out

-----------------------------------------------------

Some good info to read be for doing anything

http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=33321
http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=174
http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=34247
there is more but at the moment i don't have More that come to my head

Special thanks to fordzuki ur thread also helped me out a lots on doing my swap
and holeshot for some great thread as always



I think iv covered all u need to get to get ready to do your swap, if i miss any info feel free to tell me and ill add it and if u got picture that can help feel free to send em to me and ill post em with detail

more will come later on the step by step with more pics

enjoy!!!!
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Last edited by seb112; 11-25-2010 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 11-24-2010, 09:44 PM   #2
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You don't need a template to make the plates....
Simply get some plate 3x6, hold it up in place over the existing mount.
Mark the original bolt hole. Mark the new hole 3" away.
The other 2 bolts are just to hold the plate in place, put them where you want. trim as you want. All the plates front/rear can be the same

this is untrimmed and the front most hole not used.
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Old 11-25-2010, 02:07 AM   #3
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This does help guys...you will not believe how much.

Quick question ...how much vibration are we talking about I plan to do the rear sky style with 5.5" and the front TT 5.5". Please let me know so I can decide if the wife and kids will be able to use this.

The spring perch on the axle how much will i need to drill it to keep the wheels (both front and rear) within the wheel arches? Reason being is I am SPUA and can do the SPOA and make the width of the new perches 2.5" one time to accommodate the new spring and get the holes drilled before it is all welded together. Or does it not matter if I just rest the springs on the 2" perch for the stock suzuki springs?

thanks
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Old 11-25-2010, 02:31 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nbrebel View Post
The spring perch on the axle how much will i need to drill it to keep the wheels (both front and rear) within the wheel arches? Reason being is I am SPUA and can do the SPOA and make the width of the new perches 2.5" one time to accommodate the new spring and get the holes drilled before it is all welded together. Or does it not matter if I just rest the springs on the 2" perch for the stock suzuki springs?

thanks
depends on where you place the springs really. some move the springs so far out the axle is centered over the pin, some move the springs toards the middle and redrill the pads. you can use the stock 2" and redrill them
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Old 11-25-2010, 07:18 AM   #5
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cool... Are you running the factory front bumper?
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Old 11-25-2010, 09:18 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nbrebel View Post
This does help guys...you will not believe how much.

Quick question ...how much vibration are we talking about I plan to do the rear sky style with 5.5" and the front TT 5.5". Please let me know so I can decide if the wife and kids will be able to use this.
To be honest it depend from swap to swap, on mine i had REALLY bad vibration on the t-case with regular drive-shaft so i went with a CV style drive-shaft but it cost more money.

The spring perch on the axle how much will i need to drill it to keep the wheels (both front and rear) within the wheel arches? Reason being is I am SPUA and can do the SPOA and make the width of the new perches 2.5" one time to accommodate the new spring and get the holes drilled before it is all welded together. Or does it not matter if I just rest the springs on the 2" perch for the stock suzuki springs?

u will need to redrill ur front pearch only, drill both front 1'' foward and sit ur spring in the new hole, there will be pics with more detail later 2day about this, the back will be centered dont worry about em, on my spoa iv had trailer pearch so iv added a plate to elarge em
thanks
oh i forgot to say, if u want to run missing link up front u might want to weld em so they cant open, i dont have the factory bumper so what i did was to leave em rest on my bumper, but u cant do that if u have factory bumper
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aerio 2.3 motor 155hp!
home brew doubler
35 KM2 lockright front, fuzzy rear 5.29 axle gear
yj front, 4link coil rear
kick power steering
New paint
Toy axle

Proud to be Sponsored by Zuks Off Road for 2011
My build





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Old 05-24-2013, 12:24 AM   #7
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Vary helpful I plan on starting my swap soon thanks
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