GM alternator install

**holeshot** · 08-07-2006, 08:07 PM

I installed a GM alternator on a friends Zuk over the weekend and thought I would put up a few pictures. Might help some others that want to do the same thing.

I started with building of the mount. Used the stock mount and modifed to make it work with the GM alt.

The stock mount is the correct wigth to hold the GM alt, but in stock form it sits to far rearward. So I used a cut off wheel on an electric grinder and cut the mount piece off the plate that bolts to the engine. Then cleaned up with a sanding disk.

Move the mount piece forward on the engine plate untill its almost flush with the leading edge of the plate. Weld it to the plate in the same height position as stock.

Next drill oout the nut thats welded into the mount. Drilled out to 3/8''.
The nut is a perfict spacer for the GM alt.

Here it is bolted to my mock up motor. Its a 1.3L motor with a hole in the block. So I use it to build stuff like this.

The upper adjuster arm needs a little notch to fit around the alternator.

Its easy to see were the notch needs to be when you hold the alternator next to the bracket.

Here it is bolted to the motor. This bracket set up will allow you to use the stock Zuk alternator belt.

Lower mount now uses one 3/8'' bolt to secure the alternator.

Water pump pulley and alternator pulley are close, But do not touch.

More to come on how I did the wiring.

**zachatola** · 08-07-2006, 08:20 PM

Nice write up holeshot, ill have to make that mod myself. I actually have a spare alt bracket around her somewhere. Now i just need an alt.

.

ddement · 08-07-2006, 08:36 PM

Nice write up!

xanthias · 08-07-2006, 09:45 PM

Excellent - keep going. Be sure to include what alternator you chose.

bigflex · 08-07-2006, 10:42 PM

nice pics and writeup Holeshot, but thats no suprise you always do a great job on your writeups!

**holeshot** · 08-07-2006, 11:52 PM

The alternator I'm using is a GM 12si and is rate at 78 amp output. Its a great upgrade from the stock Zuk Alt.
You can get these alt. off of tons of differant model GM cars and truck. Around here there about 10 dollars at the local u-pull.

Here is some really good info on the GM 10si and 12si alternators. This shows you how to ID each, what the rated output is of each model is, and at the bottom of the page there is a list of part #s and what model car to get alternator from.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...elcoremy.shtml

**zukinoobi** · 08-08-2006, 12:10 AM

Terrific! Just what I've been needing... now where is the 'rest of the story?' Gotta run some wire somewhere?

Seriously, thanks - keep us posted!

zukinoobi

**holeshot** · 08-08-2006, 12:19 AM

One thing I didnt see in the above article is how to tell a high output 98 amp 12si alternator from all the others.
I can show you this with one picture.

Look at the back of the alternator. Both of these are 12si alt. The one on the right is rated at 78 amps the one on the left is the high output rated at 98 amp output.

Notice the curved cooling fins in the alternator on the left? That means its the high output alt. The one on the right has straight cooling fins. That is one sure fire means of I.Ding the high output alt. It will have the curved cooling fins.

supazuk · 08-08-2006, 12:29 AM

one cool mod i did was run down to home depot and got turnbuckle with eyes on both ends on left hand thread the other right used it in stead of the stock uper ajustment bracket it is a sure fire way to keep the alt tight

**zukinoobi** · 08-08-2006, 12:32 AM

Let's see... this is my left <--

And uh, this is my right-->

...uh, well, at least it used to be...

Seriously, I got the hint - I'm lookin' for curved cooling fins!

Thanks, and keep the story going!

zukinoobi

**holeshot** · 08-08-2006, 01:02 AM

Ok heres the wiring. Look at the back of the alternator. There is one stud and a wire connector with two wires in the connector. The connector wire positions are numbered 1 and 2 raised numbers casted into the alternator.
While your at the U-pull yard getting your alternator make sure you also get the plug in connector and cut back the wires long enuff so thay can be reused.
I take the wire in the #2 position, cut it long enuff to reach the stud on the back of the alternator. Solder on an eye connector, and connect to the stud. What this does is supply 12 volts to energize the field and starts the alternator charging.

Here is the stock Zuk alternator plug. The white wire with the red stripe gos to the dash alternator charge indicator light and supplys power to all exterior lighting. This is the wire we want to use.
The Black wire with the white stripe was used to supply 12 volts from the ignition switch to the stock alternator. We will not need to use this wire, because thats what the red wire from the #2 position thats looped back to the stud is now doing.
So cut the green plug off the two wires. Fold the Black/white stipe wire back and tape off.

Now take the white/red stripe wire and solder it to the wire coming from the #1 position in the GM alternator.

Tape up and resecure all the wiring near the alternator. Now the only thing left to connect at the alternator is the single white/yellow stripe wire that came off the stud from the stock alternator. Reconnect it to the stud on the GM alternator. So on the stud you will have two wire. The one coming from the #2 position connector and the White/yellow stripe wire.

Now that theres a 78 amp alternator on here, theres no way the stock fuseable link will handle this kind of load.
This is what I do. I'm sure some wont agree, but I'm here to tell you I've be doing this for years like this and have never had a problem.

Cut the fusable link out. leave it out.

Solder on a ring connector to the end of the wire were you cut the fusable link out and connect it to the battery.

So now your done. The stock wire from the alternator to the battery is a 10 gauge wire and if you really want to get the full potential of your new alternator, you will want to upgrade this wire to at least an 8 gauge wire. the stock wire will work, but an 8 gauge wire will work better.

Here it is competely installed and wired.

Hope this will help some of you guys. Any Questions, ask away.

**zukinoobi** · 08-08-2006, 01:20 AM

Great write up! I can use this!

zukinoobi

Bull · 08-08-2006, 08:43 AM

Excellent write up Holeshot, thanks! I have an alternator sitting on the bench to put on this weekend, this is just what I needed!!!

Great job!

Marshall · 08-08-2006, 12:21 PM

Nice job man. You are a fart smeller..... uh I mean Smart Feller.

What clock position did you use? Looks like the 3:00 but not sure.

**zachatola** · 08-08-2006, 08:16 PM

Too cool, ill have to make a trip to the junkyard here soon and see what i can come up with. Curved fins, got it. One question i have had, not really on the swap but just some thing i have wondered is do you guys ever have problems with getting mud/water in your alt being low on the motor like the zuk is?? Anyone ever move them higher in some fashion, or is it not an issue?

**DesertZuki** · 08-08-2006, 08:32 PM

Yet another phenomenal write-up from Holeshot...

Good stuff there. I think A LOT of guys will find this useful including me!

Very well done!

**Itsmejoe231** · 08-08-2006, 09:40 PM

nice work again Holeshot!!

**Zee** · 08-09-2006, 12:01 AM

Great write up Holeshot.
Hey guys,another reason to vote for Holeshot for MEMBER of the Month

Z

**holeshot** · 08-10-2006, 12:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zee

Great write up Holeshot.
Hey guys,another reason to vote for Holeshot for MEMBER of the Month

Z

Great PLUG Zee. Thanks.

Marshall · 08-10-2006, 12:01 PM

So does it matter which clock position you use or is that just where the wires will come out the back?

fuctzookis.a. · 08-10-2006, 03:04 PM

thats a great write-up! printed everything out for future install. i dont have anything like a winch or huge lights but someday i will.... again thanks for the very informative instructions

**holeshot** · 08-10-2006, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marshall

So does it matter which clock position you use or is that just where the wires will come out the back?

Sorry Marshall, I ment to answer your question yesterday.

The one I use is in the 9 o'clock position.

If the one you find is not in the correct clock position, just unbolt turn the outer case were you need it and rebolt. Its easy to change the clock position.

Marshall · 08-10-2006, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by holeshot

Sorry Marshall, I ment to answer your question yesterday.

The one I use is in the 9 o'clock position.

If the one you find is not in the correct clock position, just unbolt turn the outer case were you need it and rebolt. Its easy to change the clock position.

Cool, thanks.

LostSoul · 08-10-2006, 09:44 PM

Clocking an Alternator is not hard at all on these style, but in our case, most times it will not matter as long as when you build it everything is clearing nicely, go nuts and just take the old one in when it dies and ony wrecker can replace it. If you guys lived up here I would get you to bring them in and have our guys build them up for you.

SpaCityZuki · 08-13-2006, 06:24 PM

All I can say is WOW thank you very much for this article. I was just trying to decide on putting a gm alt. on my sidekick.. You got my VOTE!!

08-07-2006, 09:45 PM	#4
xanthias Otay! Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Kingwood, Texas Posts: 251 Rep Power: 42	Excellent - keep going. Be sure to include what alternator you chose. __________________ 1986 Pile-o-Zuk - SOLD (I'll miss her) TMTC OHV Rep. - Give me a holler!

08-07-2006, 10:42 PM	#5
bigflex Krawl Kustoms Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Longview, Texas Posts: 5,079 Rep Power: 839	nice pics and writeup Holeshot, but thats no suprise you always do a great job on your writeups! __________________ Founder of the bigflex padders union! Local 10001 RIP ZERO!you will be missed.

08-07-2006, 11:52 PM	#6
holeshot Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Puyallup,Wa. Posts: 1,372 Rep Power: 382	The alternator I'm using is a GM 12si and is rate at 78 amp output. Its a great upgrade from the stock Zuk Alt. You can get these alt. off of tons of differant model GM cars and truck. Around here there about 10 dollars at the local u-pull. Here is some really good info on the GM 10si and 12si alternators. This shows you how to ID each, what the rated output is of each model is, and at the bottom of the page there is a list of part #s and what model car to get alternator from. http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...elcoremy.shtml __________________ IF IT HASNT BROKE YET,GIVE IT TIME,IT WILL. Last edited by holeshot; 08-08-2006 at 12:10 AM.

08-08-2006, 12:10 AM	#7
zukinoobi GlenBeck Fan! 9-12'r 3%'r Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Ouachita Forest near Lake Nimrod, Arkansas Posts: 5,660 Rep Power: 9002	More! More! Terrific! Just what I've been needing... now where is the '*rest of the story?' Gotta run some wire somewhere? Seriously, thanks - keep us posted! zukinoobi __________________ "A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity."* -Sigmund Freud, General Introduction to Psychoanalysis (1952) "Pelosi snorts pig farts." -Zukinoobi, general disgust of US Congress, (2009) *"Muslims at Ground Zero. Mexicans in Arizona. Invasion you can believe in."* Zukinoobi, fed up, (2010)

08-08-2006, 12:19 AM	#8
holeshot Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Puyallup,Wa. Posts: 1,372 Rep Power: 382	One thing I didnt see in the above article is how to tell a high output 98 amp 12si alternator from all the others. I can show you this with one picture. Look at the back of the alternator. Both of these are 12si alt. The one on the right is rated at 78 amps the one on the left is the high output rated at 98 amp output. Notice the curved cooling fins in the alternator on the left? That means its the high output alt. The one on the right has straight cooling fins. That is one sure fire means of I.Ding the high output alt. It will have the curved cooling fins. __________________ IF IT HASNT BROKE YET,GIVE IT TIME,IT WILL.

08-07-2006, 08:07 PM	#1
holeshot Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Puyallup,Wa. Posts: 1,372 Rep Power: 382	GM alternator install I installed a GM alternator on a friends Zuk over the weekend and thought I would put up a few pictures. Might help some others that want to do the same thing. I started with building of the mount. Used the stock mount and modifed to make it work with the GM alt. The stock mount is the correct wigth to hold the GM alt, but in stock form it sits to far rearward. So I used a cut off wheel on an electric grinder and cut the mount piece off the plate that bolts to the engine. Then cleaned up with a sanding disk. Move the mount piece forward on the engine plate untill its almost flush with the leading edge of the plate. Weld it to the plate in the same height position as stock. Next drill oout the nut thats welded into the mount. Drilled out to 3/8''. The nut is a perfict spacer for the GM alt. Here it is bolted to my mock up motor. Its a 1.3L motor with a hole in the block. So I use it to build stuff like this. The upper adjuster arm needs a little notch to fit around the alternator. Its easy to see were the notch needs to be when you hold the alternator next to the bracket. Here it is bolted to the motor. This bracket set up will allow you to use the stock Zuk alternator belt. Lower mount now uses one 3/8'' bolt to secure the alternator. Water pump pulley and alternator pulley are close, But do not touch. More to come on how I did the wiring. __________________ IF IT HASNT BROKE YET,GIVE IT TIME,IT WILL. Last edited by holeshot; 08-07-2006 at 11:47 PM.

08-07-2006, 08:20 PM	#2
zachatola Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Puyallup, Wa Posts: 271 Rep Power: 40	Nice write up holeshot, ill have to make that mod myself. I actually have a spare alt bracket around her somewhere. Now i just need an alt. .

08-07-2006, 08:36 PM	#3
ddement Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Bastrop La. Posts: 551 Rep Power: 69	Nice write up!

08-08-2006, 12:29 AM	#9
supazuk Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: live free or die Posts: 222 Rep Power: 42	one cool mod i did was run down to home depot and got turnbuckle with eyes on both ends on left hand thread the other right used it in stead of the stock uper ajustment bracket it is a sure fire way to keep the alt tight

08-08-2006, 12:32 AM	#10
zukinoobi GlenBeck Fan! 9-12'r 3%'r Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Ouachita Forest near Lake Nimrod, Arkansas Posts: 5,660 Rep Power: 9002	Dislexi... what? Let's see... this is my left <-- And uh, this is my right--> ...uh, well, at least it used to be... Seriously, I got the hint - I'm lookin' for *curved* cooling fins! Thanks, and keep the story going! zukinoobi __________________ *"A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity."* -Sigmund Freud, General Introduction to Psychoanalysis (1952) "Pelosi snorts pig farts." -Zukinoobi, general disgust of US Congress, (2009) *"Muslims at Ground Zero. Mexicans in Arizona. Invasion you can believe in."* Zukinoobi, fed up, (2010)

08-08-2006, 01:02 AM	#11
holeshot Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Puyallup,Wa. Posts: 1,372 Rep Power: 382	Ok heres the wiring. Look at the back of the alternator. There is one stud and a wire connector with two wires in the connector. The connector wire positions are numbered 1 and 2 raised numbers casted into the alternator. While your at the U-pull yard getting your alternator make sure you also get the plug in connector and cut back the wires long enuff so thay can be reused. I take the wire in the #2 position, cut it long enuff to reach the stud on the back of the alternator. Solder on an eye connector, and connect to the stud. What this does is supply 12 volts to energize the field and starts the alternator charging. Here is the stock Zuk alternator plug. The white wire with the red stripe gos to the dash alternator charge indicator light and supplys power to all exterior lighting. This is the wire we want to use. The Black wire with the white stripe was used to supply 12 volts from the ignition switch to the stock alternator. We will not need to use this wire, because thats what the red wire from the #2 position thats looped back to the stud is now doing. So cut the green plug off the two wires. Fold the Black/white stipe wire back and tape off. Now take the white/red stripe wire and solder it to the wire coming from the #1 position in the GM alternator. Tape up and resecure all the wiring near the alternator. Now the only thing left to connect at the alternator is the single white/yellow stripe wire that came off the stud from the stock alternator. Reconnect it to the stud on the GM alternator. So on the stud you will have two wire. The one coming from the #2 position connector and the White/yellow stripe wire. Now that theres a 78 amp alternator on here, theres no way the stock fuseable link will handle this kind of load. This is what I do. I'm sure some wont agree, but I'm here to tell you I've be doing this for years like this and have never had a problem. Cut the fusable link out. leave it out. Solder on a ring connector to the end of the wire were you cut the fusable link out and connect it to the battery. So now your done. The stock wire from the alternator to the battery is a 10 gauge wire and if you really want to get the full potential of your new alternator, you will want to upgrade this wire to at least an 8 gauge wire. the stock wire will work, but an 8 gauge wire will work better. Here it is competely installed and wired. Hope this will help some of you guys. Any Questions, ask away. __________________ IF IT HASNT BROKE YET,GIVE IT TIME,IT WILL.

08-08-2006, 01:20 AM	#12
zukinoobi GlenBeck Fan! 9-12'r 3%'r Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Ouachita Forest near Lake Nimrod, Arkansas Posts: 5,660 Rep Power: 9002	Thank You! Great write up! I can use this! zukinoobi __________________ *"A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity."* -Sigmund Freud, General Introduction to Psychoanalysis (1952) "Pelosi snorts pig farts." -Zukinoobi, general disgust of US Congress, (2009) *"Muslims at Ground Zero. Mexicans in Arizona. Invasion you can believe in."* Zukinoobi, fed up, (2010)

08-08-2006, 08:43 AM	#13
Bull Bull - Bilt Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Oregon Posts: 512 Rep Power: 359	Excellent write up Holeshot, thanks! I have an alternator sitting on the bench to put on this weekend, this is just what I needed!!! Great job! __________________

08-08-2006, 12:21 PM	#14
Marshall Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Nebraska Posts: 1,761 Rep Power: 549	Nice job man. You are a fart smeller..... uh I mean Smart Feller. What clock position did you use? Looks like the 3:00 but not sure. __________________ My rebuild: http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=18928 Crawlarado: http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=26978

08-08-2006, 08:16 PM	#15
zachatola Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Puyallup, Wa Posts: 271 Rep Power: 40	Too cool, ill have to make a trip to the junkyard here soon and see what i can come up with. Curved fins, got it. One question i have had, not really on the swap but just some thing i have wondered is do you guys ever have problems with getting mud/water in your alt being low on the motor like the zuk is?? Anyone ever move them higher in some fashion, or is it not an issue?

08-08-2006, 08:32 PM	#16
DesertZuki Starting Over Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Big Sky Country Posts: 2,407 Rep Power: 136	Yet another phenomenal write-up from Holeshot... Good stuff there. I think A LOT of guys will find this useful including me! Very well done! __________________

08-08-2006, 09:40 PM	#17
Itsmejoe231 Administrator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Highlands, Tx Posts: 102,209 Rep Power: 500	nice work again Holeshot!! __________________ ________________ _________________

08-09-2006, 12:01 AM	#18
Zee Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Gresham,Oregon Posts: 1,725 Rep Power: 786	Great write up Holeshot. Hey guys,another reason to vote for Holeshot for MEMBER of the Month Z __________________

08-10-2006, 12:01 PM	#20
Marshall Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Nebraska Posts: 1,761 Rep Power: 549	So does it matter which clock position you use or is that just where the wires will come out the back? __________________ My rebuild: http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=18928 Crawlarado: http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=26978

08-10-2006, 03:04 PM	#21
fuctzookis.a. el diablo Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: TEXASS Posts: 1,906 Rep Power: 295	thats a great write-up! printed everything out for future install. i dont have anything like a winch or huge lights but someday i will.... again thanks for the very informative instructions __________________ 0X SPOA, HOMEFABBED BUMPERS F/R, GHETTO STINGER, 1.3 SCREAMIN LITERS OF POWER! HURAAH AIRBORNE!

08-10-2006, 09:44 PM	#24
LostSoul Team Jeep Rescue Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: St Catharines Posts: 1,858 Rep Power: 113	Clocking an Alternator is not hard at all on these style, but in our case, most times it will not matter as long as when you build it everything is clearing nicely, go nuts and just take the old one in when it dies and ony wrecker can replace it. If you guys lived up here I would get you to bring them in and have our guys build them up for you. __________________ Do not follow me, it is not always safe! 1987 LWB, 1.6L 8V, 6.4:1 T-case, Lincoln Locked Yodas front and rear, 5.29's, Mighty Kong with Gorillas, WARN 8000lb , Custom Tubed front end with 5.5" Stretch and Stinger, LED's rear, 38" TSL's.

08-13-2006, 06:24 PM	#25
SpaCityZuki Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Hot Springs,AR Posts: 1,820 Rep Power: 147	All I can say is WOW thank you very much for this article. I was just trying to decide on putting a gm alt. on my sidekick.. You got my VOTE!!

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