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Old 07-12-2008, 02:40 AM   #1
Anonimus47
 
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Samurai-YJ Spring setup?

Well, I've had my samurai for a little over a year now so I guess its time to do some mods. Its mostly stock minus the small body lift and the half highsteer it came with (not hooked up yet). I upgraded the front bumper, and I've got lockers for front and rear, which havent been installed yet. I also picked up a set of YJ springs that have been laying around for about 6 months now that I cant figure out what to do with. I've been reading up on it, and now its time to start asking questions. Should I install the YJ's in the rear and the rear samurai springs up front? YJ's all around? Should I do missing link? Or shackle reversal? Or shackle reversal front, and missing link rear? I only take it close to home when I go out, so it does almost no highway driving. The trails near here are mainly quad trails, so a lot of dirt and small rock, but there are a lot of creek crossing too, which involves steep banks going in and out, so better approach angles would be nice, along with lots of flex. (if i'm not completely flexed out, which is why I got the YJ springs in the first place, I'm sitting on my front bumper at the bottom of a creek bed, which is why I upgraded the front bumper) I've also heard that I need to upgrade my drivelines, which is understandable, but I've heard a rumor that you can go to a tractor shop and get tractor PTO shafts that are the right lenghth which gives you a longer slipyolk. Is this at all true? or should I just but longer drivelines with longer slipyolks? Sorry for making this so long, but I'm ready to get this project going so i can have it done before the summer weather is over. Thanks for your time.
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Old 07-12-2008, 12:02 PM   #2
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I will be doing this set up sometime in the future myself...
Check out this link..http://www.zukiworld.com/month_05010...ft_install.htm

Looks like this is the way to go from all the questions Ive been asking..
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Old 07-12-2008, 02:39 PM   #3
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I understand you won't see any hi-way driving, but since you are upgrading the suspension and steering, it can be done in a manner that handles the roads and hi-ways like a dream, and at the same time will off road like no other with lots of flex. especially when the half high steer setups come with tie rod ends.

I've been running the Trail tough kit in that link for a year and a half I could not be happier. There is a lot to be said for well built components, completeness of kit, quality of the parts, and good tech support. Even the best of kits is worthless if you can't count on support when you need it, or the quality of the parts.

The trail tough kits takes care of everything. You won't need any nuts/bolts or other components to finish the YJ installation. It is complete down to every nut and bolt. If you end up missing anything a quick call to rent, and he'll have it out to you next day, no arguments either

The things i would change..

Put the 4 pack springs in the rear (for better shock travel and ride height.)
Use Doestech 3000k shocks instead of the included 8000k (they are too stiff)
Buy and extra str of wrangler springs and use the main leaf of the extra set to add a little more spring to the stock YJ's

(you cut the eyes off the main leaf, and add it to to the stock YJ pack under the main leaf)

These are minor complaints the kit just plain rocks.
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Old 07-13-2008, 10:44 AM   #4
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Skyman, are you running 4 packs in front with 5's in the rear? That is the way mine is and it sits almost perfectly level. I have also heard of axle wrap if you run 4 packs in the rear. Mine is SUA, but that should not make any difference in how level it sits.
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Old 07-13-2008, 12:20 PM   #5
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I'm trying to figure out how to run mine. I have an ARB winch bumper with winch on the front. I also have a traction bar for the rear. This will be more of a DD than a wheeler, but will be occasionally be off road. I just am wondering which way to go without buying an add-a-leaf.
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Old 07-13-2008, 01:03 PM   #6
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Run all 4 JY's and you will love it, It will flex WAY better then with a RUF.
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Old 07-13-2008, 01:08 PM   #7
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I have my samurai set up with the Trail Tough yj kit with missing links. I am running the 5 packs is the REAR and the 4 packs in the FRONT. I drive my sami to work every day. I have a front bumper with a 8K winch. I feel that the sami is VERY comfortable on the road and I believe that it works well off road. I also believe that the sami sits level. If you want pics let me know. These are just


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Old 07-13-2008, 03:35 PM   #8
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my 20" stretch
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NevadaDVX View Post
Skyman, are you running 4 packs in front with 5's in the rear? That is the way mine is and it sits almost perfectly level. I have also heard of axle wrap if you run 4 packs in the rear. Mine is SUA, but that should not make any difference in how level it sits.
I am running 4 packs in the front, and 5 packs out back. The front is pretty nice, 4 inches of travel, good arch, and decent response on/off road, the rear is another story. I have 5 packs back there and their is no uptravel, and they are way way too soft.

I did some computer work for a guy who dropped off a set of wrangler springs yesterday. Looking at them, I am thinking that the the springs I have under mine have lost some arch.

The previous owner had a homemade YJ setup (scary) with really long shackles. It's possible that those long shackles beat the YJ's flat. The 4 packs were in the front so it's possible they didn't get the beating the ones in the rear saw.

I'm going to try the 4 packs my friend dropped off today or tomorrow. If they don't ride stiff enough, I'll slap in the 5 packs he sent and see what happens.

NevadaDVX with the TT kit and 5 packs in the rear, how much shock travel do you have in the rear? If Mines sitting that low it really is possible those 5 packs were beat when I bought the rig.

I'm starting to think that fine tuning the YJ ride is as subjective as gearing and tires. It all depends on how tired your engine is, how long your rigs been beat, they shape they were in when you got them, and the terrain you like to conquer. However, I will say they seem to be the absolute best option for samurai suspension before coils.

Who knows, the owner of the jeep mikne were under could have had it perpetually loaded it with 8-9 sheep everywhere he went. That'd wear those YJ's out pretty quick..hence the saggin rear of my samurai.

So hows yur uptravel NevadaDVX?

Thanks
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Old 07-13-2008, 04:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyman View Post

So hows yur uptravel NevadaDVX?

To be honest, I haven't checked it yet. I still need to get out there, pull the wheels off and measure for shocks as the stockers are still on........as well as brake lines. I plan on doing that after I get my 1.6 in, but the smokey air from the California fires keeps me from going out to the shop to do anything. The air has been absolutely horrible for the past 3 weeks, not to mention near 100 degree temps.
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Old 07-13-2008, 07:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JK Fab View Post
I have my samurai set up with the Trail Tough yj kit with missing links. I am running the 5 packs is the REAR and the 4 packs in the FRONT. I drive my sami to work every day. I have a front bumper with a 8K winch. I feel that the sami is VERY comfortable on the road and I believe that it works well off road. I also believe that the sami sits level. If you want pics let me know. These are just


Jeff
Please show some pics so I can see how it sits. Also, What did you guys with bumpers, and missing links up front do about the bump-stops? I think I am going to have to weld them to the bumper. I just have a hard time getting it through my head that those 5 packs have to go up front like some guys say. A samurai front end HAS to be lighter than a jeep front end.
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Old 07-13-2008, 07:55 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by 450rydr View Post
Please show some pics so I can see how it sits. Also, What did you guys with bumpers, and missing links up front do about the bump-stops? I think I am going to have to weld them to the bumper. I just have a hard time getting it through my head that those 5 packs have to go up front like some guys say. A samurai front end HAS to be lighter than a jeep front end.
Here are some pics of mine, although it is SUA. I have a Zor Subspeed bumper I will be installing soon. I will have to relocate the inner portion of the TT bumpstops to the inside of the frame. Then mount the bumper where the stops are now mounted. No big deal really. Myron sent me a couple of shots of how to do it and it looks simple. I will have to cut down the inner sleeves a bit, but that should be about the hardest part.



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Old 07-14-2008, 01:44 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 450rydr View Post
Please show some pics so I can see how it sits. Also, What did you guys with bumpers, and missing links up front do about the bump-stops? I think I am going to have to weld them to the bumper. I just have a hard time getting it through my head that those 5 packs have to go up front like some guys say. A samurai front end HAS to be lighter than a jeep front end.
I will post up more pics tomorrow. I have a couple but they are without the front bumper on. Keep in mind too I went with the 5 packs in the REAR and the 4 packs in the FRONT.....

I think it flexes good with that spring combo:

Rear shot.....



Front shot.....



Crappy pics of the stance. Will get some better ones tomorrow.





Feel free to check out my build. There are A LOT of pics....

http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=13382

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Old 07-14-2008, 12:11 PM   #14
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Did you guys have to do any clearancing on your cross-member for the front driveline?
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Old 08-27-2008, 03:44 PM   #15
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Where did airborne jordan's post go? Go the e-mail but can't see the post?
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Old 08-27-2008, 09:40 PM   #16
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Where did airborne jordan's post go? Go the e-mail but can't see the post?
I agree, that is really weird. Here is what I copied from my email.........

Well as some of you guys know in the past few months I put a AAP S/R on my sammi. So far it is a very nice lift. How ever, I do have a couple questions to ask you. On the AAP web page they claim to be able to get 40+" of travel.Keep in mind that I am looking to ge somewhere around 36". I have installed the kit my self and did every thing the directions said to a "T". Well, after a little use and breaking it in i measured it and I am only coming in at 32" and that is pushing it.







(This pictures shows the angle at witch my Front/Rear shackle is at)



Now I do know that there are a couple of factors affecting this like shocks. SO,Here are some quick spec of my rig..Start off with AAP S/R kit. I am Running "yj 5 Packs" on all 4. My shocks are Dostech 8000's with 32"extended in the front and 27"extended in the rear. The rear shocks are mounted at the top on the stock rear hangers. On the rear bottom mounts, First I tried to mount the shock tab on the top of the axle pointing toward the rear. The shock fit but had NO up travel, So I re-mounted them to the bottom of the rear axle pointing out. Now I have about 3 1/2" up travel.On the front upper mounts I am running the f-250 shock towers and I am riding on 32" tires.



I have flexed it out both ways and am clearing all points,nothing is hitting preventing further movement. So, any tips on getting more flex?

The next guestion is a problem that i am having with my front drive shaft. I took the stock shaft and had a shop extend it 4". I did not want to use the spacers.I tried them and the angle was Very bad. so..now I have no spacers and I had to cut my front cross member to make it happen but the angle is much better.( I have not welded up a re-enforcement on the cross member YET but I will soon)




So the problem is that the drive shaft keeps falling out. It will fully flex out each wheel one at a time just fine, But when your climbing up a really steep hill and the hole axle drops down it comes right apart. That is really getting on my nerves! The slip joint is all most fully closed when resting so I cant just add a longer yolk. SO..do you guys have any thoughts on that issue?? Thanks again for all your help! I will try to get some pictures up soon..

Again, this is not my (NevadaDVX) post, but AirborneJordans I copied from my email.
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Old 08-28-2008, 07:41 PM   #17
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Well... I'll post in the other thread when I get a minute, but it sounds like you need one of two things.

Either longer splines, or a limiting strap in the middle. I would vote for a limiting strap in the middle. It will give your suspension somethign to pivot from and probably help with travel as well.

The only time that shaft should fall out is going up hill,and having the front tires come damned near, if not all the way off the ground. It's pretty coon to get air at the top of a hill with these short wheelbase rigs.

Looks to me like you could use a yota shaft if they have a few more splines, not completely sure.

Now, as for more articulation, are the clamps on the springs still intact? if they are, how tight are they, any room for movement?

Have you measured flex in the real world? I always get more on a rock than I do on a lift.

How worn are your springs, new ones tend not to flex so well.
Do you have bumpstops? and how tight are your bushings?

When your bushings are a bit too snug it doesn't allow the spring any twist at all. as one side drops the leaf wants to twist a little bit. if they are too tight it can't twist and that wil be the end of your articulation


Hope some of that helps
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:39 AM   #18
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I was wondering if anybody could tell me the height of a sami that is running toy axles, yj's, and 33's im talking about from the ground to the bottom of the rocker pannel. thanks
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Old 08-31-2008, 05:52 PM   #19
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I was wondering if anybody could tell me the height of a sami that is running toy axles, yj's, and 33's im talking about from the ground to the bottom of the rocker pannel. thanks
im running that setup with fj40 axles but with also a 1in body lift
ill try and measure it 2morrow and get the exact measurements for ya
older pick but what it looks like

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Old 09-01-2008, 05:29 PM   #20
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thanks
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Old 09-01-2008, 06:34 PM   #21
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Not to hi-jack, but here goes . How are the FJ 40's working out for you?

I had a opportunity to uy the whole rig as a roller(older cruiser) but I didn't bite because I didn't know how road worthy the axles would be.

I am wondering how they do for strength and drive ability. I do not have any experince with the cruiser axles. Any insight would be greatly appreciated as they're a lot easier to come by than 2nd gen toyota axles around here.

Thanks,.
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