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Old 01-22-2006, 04:26 PM   #26
DesertZuki
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holeshot
...With spring under pads sitting on saw horses I measured from top of saw horse to top of new pad...
I'm curious why you didn't change the pinion angle for the rear.

Looks great and great job on the pics and the info!
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Old 01-22-2006, 05:02 PM   #27
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Nice thread, and great work.
Hopefully I'll be making a similar thread in the Spring for a Yota axle swap.
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Old 01-23-2006, 05:44 AM   #28
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i must say mate
i have been looking for a write up like this every where....
this is great
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Old 01-24-2006, 12:42 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbtowery
I'm curious why you didn't change the pinion angle for the rear.
I should have. I wish I would have turned up pinion a few degrees.
It is very easy to do in the rear.
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Old 01-24-2006, 12:58 AM   #30
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I got the rear end back under the rig and all bolted in place over the weekend.
I decided to use these brake line extensions for the rear. I think thay are perfect for this size lift.
Thay come on all Samurais. extensions are mounted stock on the front right side. Its a jumper from the frame to the body. Of course you will need to have a spare Samurai in order to have an extra set of these lines.



I just srewed the jumper to the stock rear line. For a total length of about 17''





The jumpers fit perfectly into the stock mounts.



I felt the other brake line extensions I got from the wreckin yard were a little long for this lift height.
I have not called and dont know for sure, but I bet Brent at TT would sell these short extensions cheep. But dont quote me on that.

Only think left to do now is bleed the brakes and extend the drivelines.
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Last edited by holeshot; 01-24-2006 at 01:11 AM.
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Old 01-25-2006, 07:58 PM   #31
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Got the drivline extensions built. I did this by lenghting the female end of the driveline slip joint.
Start with cleaning off all the paint.



1 3/4''x.095'' pipe fits over the female end perfictly. Cut a piece to 3 1/4'' long. Measure the overall length of the slip joint. Will need measurement for a referance later. Then cut piece in half. I used a sawzall.



Load the two halfs of the slip joint and the pipe onto the male end of the driveline. seperate the two halfs of the female end untill it is 1'' longer than before it was cut. Center the pipe over the two halfs.
I have an old male spline end I cut the tube off that I use for this.



Make sure all pieces are lined up correctly and weld ends. I used a TIG for this.



I have done this to a few other Samurais and has worked well.
For most basic spring over lifts you will need to extend both drivelines about an inch. You can also buy driveline spacers, but I perfer this way better. Because I built it, and it does not increase the joint working angles of the u-joints like the spacers do.
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Last edited by holeshot; 01-25-2006 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 01-26-2006, 03:22 AM   #32
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Nice work!!
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Old 01-26-2006, 02:33 PM   #33
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Wish that was up when I did my soa. Clean job. Sweet
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Old 01-26-2006, 11:35 PM   #34
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Really great work and thread. Been looking all over, found nothing as complete as this. What might be different for yj springs if anything?
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Old 01-27-2006, 01:33 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dryheat
Really great work and thread. Been looking all over, found nothing as complete as this. What might be different for yj springs if anything?
Thanks to everyone who has complimented on my work.

YJ springs are longer and wider than Samurai springs. So you could use a
2 1/2'' wide spring over pad. You also would need relocation plates for the fixed end of the spring mount, and on the shackle end of spring you would need missing link shackles or would need to extend frame a few inches forward.
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Old 01-28-2006, 07:51 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbtowery
Great job on using inexpensive parts!

What ball joint does the Mercedes arm use?
And what Mercedes did they come from?

Nevermind... Forgot to read the next page


I am not so great at cutting and welding, I have seen the bolt on ones for sale, any of them worth the money?

T
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Old 01-28-2006, 11:45 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tamarack
I am not so great at cutting and welding, I have seen the bolt on ones for sale, any of them worth the money?
T
Are you talking about a bolt on lift??
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Old 02-05-2006, 05:36 PM   #38
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Well its finnished. Got It out for a wash and test drive. Every thing seams to be working great. Heres the last of the pictures.











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Old 02-05-2006, 06:43 PM   #39
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Wow! Nice looking Zuki!

He has to be pleased!
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Old 02-05-2006, 07:47 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX_ZUKI
Wow! Nice looking Zuki!

He has to be pleased!

X2 looks great!
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Old 02-21-2006, 07:04 PM   #41
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REALLY NICE!!!!!

look so easy that i'm planning on doing the same to my sammy this spring!!!

thank for your good explanation of ''how it should be done''


GOOD ''How to''!!!!

thanks
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Old 02-22-2006, 04:02 PM   #42
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WOW, sweet work holeshot. All the work i have seen from you looks awsome. Very good looking ride.
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Old 03-05-2006, 10:01 PM   #43
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Very nice work, and great explanation, im starting to get some of the stuff you guys talk about.
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Old 03-12-2006, 03:27 AM   #44
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ya thanks a lot i have been thinking of doing the spoa ,and have checked out a few different how to's and yours has been the most informative .the many pictures helped also i was gonna cut off the old pads and use them but i think i might try to make them myself, im not a but i have acess to one at work...

anyways thanks again
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Old 04-05-2006, 11:14 PM   #45
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holy clean job man! when we did mine we just sprayed right over all the greese and crap on the axel haha, just wanted it in there, doing a toy axel swap soon and will do them right
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Old 04-22-2006, 04:11 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holeshot
Heres the Mercedes steering arms I got from the wrecking yard. Paid $13 for both. I only used the right side arm.


It's possible to use both arms, one for the left and one for the right side?
Or will they interfer with the pitman arm?

Thanks!
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Old 04-22-2006, 10:39 AM   #47
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I'm sorry if this was already asked, I tried reading all the posts...are you worried at all about the driveshaft angles and vibration? When you lift a vehicle you increase the angles and therefore add a vibration, and I didn't see you compensate for that by adjusting the spoa pads to decrease the overall angle of the driveshafts. Just a thought...
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Old 05-05-2006, 01:27 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buger
It's possible to use both arms, one for the left and one for the right side?
Or will they interfer with the pitman arm?

Thanks!
You can use both arms for a full high steer. Thay will not interfer with the pitman arm.
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Old 05-05-2006, 01:39 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayes
I'm sorry if this was already asked, I tried reading all the posts...are you worried at all about the driveshaft angles and vibration? When you lift a vehicle you increase the angles and therefore add a vibration, and I didn't see you compensate for that by adjusting the spoa pads to decrease the overall angle of the driveshafts. Just a thought...
You are right for the most part. On the front axle you can not adjust the pinion angle by just turning the spoa pads. You need to maintain the correct caster angle. To adjust the front, you would need to cut the knuckles off and rotate the axle.
On the rear rotating the new spoa is very easy to do to correct for a better u-joint working angle. However with a spoa you will get alot more axle wrap, so if you turn the pinion up to much the yokes will hit sooner under torque.
The pinion always raises under torque.
So far no one has complained about vibrations after I lifted there Zuki.
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Old 05-05-2006, 02:32 AM   #50
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Just an other quick question, when you performed the SOA have you modified the front crossmember under the tranny? Because my looks like will be hit by the front drive shaft.

Thanks!
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