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Old 08-04-2014, 04:30 PM   #1
spike
 
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Toyota axle swap headache with driveline

Hello guys. I have a 87 samurai with a 16v 1.6l, yj spring over on yota axles on 35 inch tires. I am running a toyota cv in the rear ( pinion pointed at tc) which seems to vibrate slightly at about 20-25mph. The bigger problem is the front driveline. I shortened a non cv toyota rear to use for the front. I had to cut the crossmember for clearance. I runs smooth until about 10mph then shakes/noise like a washing machine the will even out at about 25-30mph. I tried changing tc mounts in order to drop the front of tc but it seems to only change speed of vibration. Thinking about cv front out of toyota but not sure which year. What do you guys think. Been doing a ton of reading but not sure where to go with it. Help.
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Old 08-04-2014, 07:05 PM   #2
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Did you shorten the Toy non cv DS yourself?
What was the runout of the tube and also at the slip yoke?
Have you had them balanced?

As far as a double cardan DS in the front, I am told you have to rotate the pinion to point to the TC, and then that means rotating the knuckles also.......lots of work.

I'm in the process of retubing some toy DS for my SPOA, YJ, zuk axles, zuk, and am also still learning as I go.
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:55 PM   #3
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Spike, I run the exact set up except I run 32" BFG Mud Terrains. I run stock samurai front drive shaft w/a spacer and a stock rear samurai shaft w/ a 1" extended slip yoke. I know everyone says this won't work BUT I have run this this set up on & off road for 3 years. I drive it about 100 to 125 miles a week & I wheel it hard on the weekends. It does not vibrate & I consistently run 55-60 mph everyday .
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:19 PM   #4
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Spike, I run the exact set up except I run 32" BFG Mud Terrains. I run stock samurai front drive shaft w/a spacer and a stock rear samurai shaft w/ a 1" extended slip yoke. I know everyone says this won't work BUT I have run this this set up on & off road for 3 years. I drive it about 100 to 125 miles a week & I wheel it hard on the weekends. It does not vibrate & I consistently run 55-60 mph everyday .
Did you have to clearance the DS yoke "ears"?
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Old 08-04-2014, 10:00 PM   #5
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I had it shotened at a shop. I am going to take it to have it rebalanced . Did not clearance the yolk ears had to cut out cross member quite a bit. The yota shaft i am using was a 85 rear and had plenty degrees. Seems like the tc front flange and front pinion flange are not equal in angle. Has anybody lowered tc with some sucess? I am learning as i go, first build. Thanks for the help. You guys rock.
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Old 08-05-2014, 10:27 AM   #6
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Yes, get them balanced and see if the vibes go away. It seems strange that you're getting vibs in the rear with the pinion face parallel [accurately?] with the TC flange face, and the double cardan DS. Getting bad spring wrap?

I have the 4runner non cv DS from an 89 and a 1990. They can operate without binding up to about 42 deg.

Check out this vid......... you want the TC flange and Pinion flange to have the same angle, as in being parallel with each other. If they are not, then vibs can occur. I would strive to do this on the rear driveline, since you'll likely be in 2wd most of the time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=gmV4qwLfOMY

About cutting the trans X member for clearance........what TC cradle do you have?

Here is a pic of mine in progress.
It has the Snatch in place. The pic shows no rubbing between the front DS / X member while sitting level with just the weight of the frame and a few other parts. I jacked the body up yesterday so that the missing links were fully open, and the gap at the DS / X member closed to about 1/8th inch. The rub marks that you see on the DS are from when I had the Low Range EOS cradle in there, it allowed for rubbing..........either it had the nose of the TC down or the Snatch has the nose up...so far no rubbing, but I have yet to fully compress the susp. and check. The plan is to replace this driveline with the toy DS I am working on. I'm not liking the spacers / binding zuk u joints as it sits.


Last edited by Spokerider; 08-05-2014 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 08-07-2014, 05:18 PM   #7
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Spike, I assume you welded in steel to replace the cut-out crossmember?
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:21 PM   #8
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Thanks again for all the info/help. Getting the ds balanced. Yup, welding in steel for replace crossmember. Am trying to get tc set level. I am also thinking about a tc cradle. The tc shakes when i drive.
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Old 08-17-2014, 05:13 PM   #9
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Last edited by spike; 08-17-2014 at 05:16 PM. Reason: add pic
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Old 08-19-2014, 12:43 AM   #10
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Did you reduce your Tcase gears if so I am seeing that you are running the stock tcase brackets( I don't remember the correct name for them). You might want to look them over. After I installed my 6.5 gears in the tcase I twisted the long bracket verry slightly and that gave me really bad vibes and even caused the tcase to pop out of gear at times.
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Old 08-19-2014, 03:45 PM   #11
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it is a stock tc. should get my ds back tomorrow
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Old 08-23-2014, 12:45 PM   #12
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Well got the front ds balanced and put it back on and still has bad vibration at about 15-20 mph in 4h Im thinking about getting rocky road mega mount transfer case system. My 4wd shifter alway seems to shake during street driving. Anybody have experience with this product?
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Old 08-24-2014, 11:07 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spike View Post
Well got the front ds balanced and put it back on and still has bad vibration at about 15-20 mph in 4h Im thinking about getting rocky road mega mount transfer case system. My 4wd shifter alway seems to shake during street driving. Anybody have experience with this product?
You should consider the ZOR transfer case mount. A MUCH better upgrade and ZOR has a great reputation for product quality and service.
http://www.zuksoffroad.com/1714-bolt...ked_p_182.html
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Old 08-24-2014, 03:13 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Ned Kelly View Post
You should consider the ZOR transfer case mount. A MUCH better upgrade and ZOR has a great reputation for product quality and service.
http://www.zuksoffroad.com/1714-bolt...ked_p_182.html
I would agree, or you can buy my trail tough cradle for 100 so that I can buy the ZOR super snatch.
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Old 08-24-2014, 06:34 PM   #15
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Quote:
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I would agree, or you can buy my trail tough cradle for 100 so that I can buy the ZOR super snatch.
Are you talking about the MkII?
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Old 08-24-2014, 08:28 PM   #16
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No, I was talking about their original mighty kong. Basically the same thing minus the front and rear mounting points. Don't get me wrong, the Mighty kong is a good product but the issue I have is that I have to constantly replace the TC mounts, and yes I use the Polaris kind which makes it last a bit longer. But I always have to take extras and I have to swap out at least one mount after a trip. And at about $80 per set it gets pricy. I also run 35" tires and toy axles just like you. You are better off spending a bit more for the Snatch and not have to worry about having to carry spare mounts.

But if you still intrested I will sell it. LMK.
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Old 08-24-2014, 10:42 PM   #17
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Man, Seems like the zor snatch is the way to go.
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:02 AM   #18
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I would say so. Plus I believe that the snatch is on sale now and u also get a "panty liner" the last time I checked about a week ago.
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Old 10-02-2014, 08:46 PM   #19
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Good info. I have yota axles, 36 tires, just had a yota rear driveline shortened to put on. Though I have to find a Large flange for tc. For the front I use Stock zuk one with a 1.5 spacer but if both front tires drop it slips out at yoke. I am n the process of finding. Got a driveline for front but I am already close to the cross member now n shall be cutting it to allow more travel of driveline.
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Old 11-08-2014, 12:39 PM   #20
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Can you post a picture from the passenger side with the front wheel off? Have you stretch3d the wheelbase at all?
You shouldnt get any vibes from the front with it in 2wd. Id also like to see a pic of the rear to see what kind of angle you have on the shaft. Did the driveline shop redo the rear shaft or the front? Did they check the CV joint to make sure its still good?

Have you checked the tcase mount on the driver side to be sure it doesnt have any cracks or damage?
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