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Old 01-19-2012, 04:59 PM   #1
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Transmission Assembly Tips

The trans is not talked about too much and being in the process of rebuilding the one going in the Zuk on 38’s Build. Thought it would be a good time to share a few tips and tools that were picked up on in a couple of pervious rebuilds.

Reference Rebuild Info:

Here is a good step by step and pics. (There are some Gray areas for reassembly though).
http://www.geerdijk.com/files/suzuki/tranny_rebuild.pdf

The FSM will be needed for a few things that were not covered.


This is my minimum parts list and parts # from LROR.

1----STM-ISR-----------Samurai Transmission Front Input Housing Bearing Retainer
2----STM-CRSB--------Samurai Clutch Release Shaft (throwout) Bushing
1----STM-TNB----------Samurai Transmission Needle Bearings
1----STM-RRTB--------Suzuki Samurai Transmission Tail Shaft Bushing
1----STM-UTM---------Unbreakable Rear Transmission Mount
1----SDT-TBS----------Samurai Transmission Shifter Bolt 86-89
1----STM-TIP-----------Samurai Timing Inspection Plug
1----SDT-TMBN--------Samurai Nylatron Transmission Shifter Bushing
1----STM-RKS----------Samurai Transmission Rebuild Kit w/ Syncros And Silicone
1----STM-CRSOS-----Clutch Release Shaft (Throwout) Oil Seal


There are a few grey areas I will try and shed some light on.

The countershaft installation is one of those grey areas. This is the procedure that works well with a press, mallet, couple of sockets and a piece of pipe.

Pics are marked in detail


























Last edited by Tan Zuk; 02-09-2012 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:02 PM   #2
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Here is another one of those gray areas that I will walk you through.

Rear Tailshaft Bushing is something that is probably overlooked.

A couple of reason for changing it are:

There always seems to be metal shavings on the rear tialshaft bearing location flange. The worn out bushing seems to be causing this problem.

The worn out bushing will also cause the driveshaft to have excess runout and will cause the seal to leak prematurely.

The pics are marked in order of removal and install.



















Last edited by Tan Zuk; 02-09-2012 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:05 PM   #3
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Here is a Tip that has been around for a long time. Never tried it before because of the extra time involved to make it.

The last trans rebuild the case bolts seemed to be a problem keeping sorted for the proper hole locations. This is because there are different lengths and different types of items attached to them. They also tend to roll around on the bench which causes them to get mixed up.

Decided to give the block of wood with holes drilled a try. It is to keep the appropriate bolts in order and location they were removed from. Wanted to pass this on because it had worked so well. The bolts had better manners this time and are going to be very easy now to install.

Definitely worth the extra time to make.

Pic is of a 4x4 Block of scrap wood and 5/16 holes drilled for the bolts 3” deep. The holes were put in to match the bolts in the separate sections of the housing during disassembly.




Last edited by Tan Zuk; 02-09-2012 at 04:15 PM.
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:07 PM   #4
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Clutch Fork Bushing removal tool consisting of:

How to make a tool

How to use the tool

Bushing Removal and Install Instructions


The info was getting much too long to make it interesting. It is now in a much shorter format with a lot of detail for completing this task.

Pics are posted in order and marked with instructions.

This tool and process has been used several times. Just hope it isn’t too confusing on the instructional part of it.



























Last edited by Tan Zuk; 02-09-2012 at 04:15 PM.
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:09 PM   #5
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Summary:

Found after disassembly the instructions seemed a bit sketchy for reassembly. Thought a more detailed assembly process and the Special Tools would shed some light on the gray areas that I had experienced. Hope these couple of transmission tips were helpful in shedding a better light on those Gray areas.

Note: (IMO)
The special tools that were used can be made without too much trouble. The Small Vise that was used is a CHEAP 3” Vise that can be found at Enco.


Here are the last 2 tools that were used.








Last edited by Tan Zuk; 02-09-2012 at 04:17 PM.
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:44 PM   #6
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Nice... Love the extra details and clearity
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Old 01-22-2012, 04:13 PM   #7
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excellent work! definitely book marking for when i finally get around to rebuilding my spare.

Thanks tan zuk
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Old 01-24-2012, 07:47 AM   #8
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Nice write up Terry
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:07 PM   #9
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Thanks for the compliments and the Reps are greatly appreciated.

Just trying to help out.



There are other TIPS that are on my build thread that may be of interest.


LINK

http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=44942
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Old 03-22-2012, 12:32 AM   #10
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That bearing where the output shaft sits is a regular ball bearing. Is there a needle bearing that can be substituted for this, since needle bearings are supposedly more durable than ball types and the output shaft carries a lot of stress since there is play due to propeller shaft offset towards t-case.

Just wondering.
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:46 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azulebleu View Post
That bearing where the output shaft sits is a regular ball bearing. Is there a needle bearing that can be substituted for this, since needle bearings are supposedly more durable than ball types and the output shaft carries a lot of stress since there is play due to propeller shaft offset towards t-case.

Just wondering.
Sorry, I haven't come across any info on that. Haven't heard of that many trans failures even with all the abuse they get. The few that I have gone through really didn't have any damage or excessive wear. Just wanted to freshen things up while they were out since they had 0ver 140,000 miles on them.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:15 AM   #12
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I see, thanks for the practical info sir.
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Old 04-19-2012, 12:06 AM   #13
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tan Zuk View Post
Sorry, I haven't come across any info on that. Haven't heard of that many trans failures even with all the abuse they get. The few that I have gone through really didn't have any damage or excessive wear. Just wanted to freshen things up while they were out since they had 0ver 140,000 miles on them.
I just finished getting another tranny in my '95 jx auto 4 door my question is actually two. One is the mounts for transfer case and crossmember what it properly looks like,cause i was absent for small part, and something looks like missing, hard engaging from P to R or D which brings me to question #2. Was attempting to finish the throttle cable when she died. Thought maybe gas but no getting frustrated about to remove auto for manual those I know. Please any advice much appreciated. Pics will post tomorrow for more visual.
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Old 04-30-2012, 10:01 AM   #14
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How can you tell if the tranny mount rubber needs replacing? Also need info if motor rubber mounts should be replaced, how soft is too soft?
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Old 04-30-2012, 12:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azulebleu View Post
How can you tell if the tranny mount rubber needs replacing? Also need info if motor rubber mounts should be replaced, how soft is too soft?
If you still have the original motor and trans mounts you should probably replace them.

This is how I check the motor mounts. Start by checking the exhaust side of the engine first. This is the side that gets the torque and is usually torn in half. If you reach over the motor from the intake side and grab low on the exhaust try and pull the motor up and to the intake side.

There should only be minimal movement checking the mount in this manner. If there is movement be sure to change both sides.

To check the trans mount you can pull it off the trans. Pull and twist looking for any type of rips or abnormality in the rubber. If there is anything looking bad replace.

You should also check your transfer case mounts in the same manner that the trans mount was checked. If 1 is bad replace all of them.


Most people donít like to spend much money on their parts including myself. I do however purchase a good set of the heavy duty motor mounts, Trail Tough unbreakable trans mounts,. You can get all these parts including the transfer case mounts from Low Range Off Road.

This is what I do and is just my personnel opinion. There may be others that have a different method or even different parts choice.


Good Luck with your choices
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Old 09-10-2012, 05:50 PM   #16
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Thanks for the parts on the clutch fork assm.

I have mine apart now just waiting on parts. Truth be told I did not have much difficulty in getting it apart I just threw all the parts on some shop rags somehow still managed to mix a few things up but after 10 mins I realized most of the pieces will only go on in one particular order. Just be mindfull of the Synchros, they have to be installed correctly.

If it's alright I will add a few more pics and show what goes where that way it's clear to everyone.
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:21 PM   #17
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Glad that you had no trouble getting it apart. That is however the easy part of it.

Really don't think there needs to be any more pics added.

The PDF file noted at the top seems to cover that part well with detailed pics already. Honestly never had an issue putting that area back together just the C-clips that hold the assembly togther were troublesome.
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:24 PM   #18
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Well I have considerable experience with this stuff just the first time I have torn into one of these. I am sure I will be cussing those clips at some point. I got them off with just a couple screw drivers but getting them back might get interesting. I like the idea of the little vise I do have something like that so if it gets too annoying with my set of thin needle nose pliers I may give that a shot.

The shift drums were interesting as one of them the keys are offset. I almost missed that when I started assembling those. I can say I am glad I took the time to take each one completely apart cause they were loaded with nasty metallic goop.
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Old 09-27-2012, 09:36 AM   #19
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Just want to caution everyone once again about measuring the new parts and comparing any differences to the old ones as well.


Animal78 has just brought to my attention that he had gotten a brass syncro ring in the new kit that did not funtion correctly. This lead to a problem with 1st gear popping out.

I also have mentioned about checking the new rear tailshaft bushings as well. The last one I got was undersize.

Really don't want to find this out after you have installed it.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:53 PM   #20
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Thanks for the tailshaft bushing info!

I am rebuilding an '88 .79 Fifth gear unit and i was unaware that the part was even there!

I'll order one and install it before buttoning it up.
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:43 PM   #21
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Thanks for the tailshaft bushing info!

I am rebuilding an '88 .79 Fifth gear unit and i was unaware that the part was even there!

I'll order one and install it before buttoning it up.
It really helped get rid of the slop when grabbing the intermediate shaft and shaking it. Also if yours looks real gritty on the inside then it's electrical arching from bad grounding. That's what I was told by a tranny mech.
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:44 PM   #22
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Make this a sticky
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Old 12-22-2015, 11:57 AM   #23
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Why is the tailshaft bushing pressed in .04" below surface?
Where did you get that info?

Factory FSM does not even mention tailshaft bearing removal/replacement at all.

LROR manual for trans rebuild says to press the tail bushing flush.

Just wondering...
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Old 12-22-2015, 01:11 PM   #24
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This is the difference from my experience, and talking to a tranny guru. You'll need to try and keep as much heat way from the seal as possible. As the bushing heat it expands. not just outward but also in length too. There isn't a lot of space between the seal and the bushing so as it heats and depending on the bushing it may contact the lip pf the seal and premature failure can occur. I was told by the the Owner of Oceanside Trans in SoCal, that when he built my racing trans for my Zuk that it had to be that way because it failed even on the trans dyno/running stand.

At least that's what I was told, and it survived several long drives to TT competitions in NM and West Tx. I think I was the only competitor that would drive his Zuk to these races compete and drive home.
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Old 12-22-2015, 01:57 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KoffeeClutch View Post
Why is the tailshaft bushing pressed in .04" below surface?
Where did you get that info?

Factory FSM does not even mention tailshaft bearing removal/replacement at all.

LROR manual for trans rebuild says to press the tail bushing flush.

Just wondering...
The .040 was measured on the stock trans sleeve before removal. Just installing the new sleeve in the same position.

I have had the inside diameter of the bushing get smaller after installation. Be sure you double check the intermediate shaft fits after installation.
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