Go Back   Zukikrawlers > Technical > Technical Section
Photo Gallery Home Forum FlashChat Email

Technical Section Technical, Modifications, Troubleshooting, and Repairs. You better wanna get greasy to be in here!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-25-2013, 12:06 AM   #76
azulebleu
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: metro manila, philippines
Posts: 146
Rep Power: 7134
azulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond repute
Will do next week, already have replacement pads for front brakes anyways.
Also noticed that the rubber hoses need replacement as well due to small cracks. As for the handbrake I need to shorten the cable, not extend it. But I can have a new cable custom fabricated locally when it needs replacement already due to wear. For now not really a biggie for the extra travel on the handbrake lever, I can live with it.

Pondering about bursting brake lines, maybe this is where the caliper with mechanical e-brakes has an advantage over t-case mounted e-brakes. Say driving on a highway and you lose braking power, you can decellerate first then feather the e-brake when you slow down. Also in case you need to stop right away I would tend to think that the caliper e-brake would be better. Imagine in the same situation for t-case e-brakes, that may make you brake sideways due to the differentials? Also the tremenduous shock that will put on your diff gears and prop shaft.

Thanks Wayne!
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]De-Islamize the Philippines.
azulebleu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2013, 11:43 AM   #77
Reddog1
 
Reddog1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: El Dorado, California
Posts: 5,579
Rep Power: 78000
Reddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond repute
Quote:
Originally Posted by azulebleu View Post
... As for the handbrake I need to shorten the cable, not extend it. But I can have a new cable custom fabricated locally when it needs replacement already due to wear. For now not really a biggie for the extra travel on the handbrake lever, I can live with it. ...
I thought I made this post earlier, but I could not find it. Guess I'm getting old.

In rereading your post above, I am not sure you understand the need for the hand brake lever adapter. It is not to lengthen or shorten the ebrake cable. It's purpose is to relocate the cable connection relative to the pivot point on the handbrake lever. This allows for less travel of the handbrake lever to apply the ebrake. Unless I am misunderstanding your post, you may want to take another look at Post #4.

I could have welded the adapter to the lever, but preferred to use the original cable connection hole and added a second one to bolt the adapter to the ebrake hand lever.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 014 640 details.jpg (103.5 KB, 104 views)
__________________
'91 EFI, DD, Hardtop, Partial EXO, A/C, Warn 8000 winch, 100 AMP GM Alt, Toy Celica P/S, TT YJ SPOA M/L, 5-leaf YJ, DT 8000 shocks, TT Knuckle Over Steering, Mighty Kong, 6.5 TC, Evil Twins, TT Full Skid Plate, Diff Guards, Fuel Tank Skid, Rock Sliders, Anti-Wrap Bar w/Axle Truss, Panhard Bar, Cooper SST - 30x9.5x15, 8" wide 2-1/2" BS wheels, Maxima rear Disc w/ebrake, rear locker, Thumb Throttle, CB Radio, towed 4 down








Reddog1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2013, 11:54 AM   #78
Reddog1
 
Reddog1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: El Dorado, California
Posts: 5,579
Rep Power: 78000
Reddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond repute
Quote:
Originally Posted by azulebleu View Post
...Pondering about bursting brake lines, maybe this is where the caliper with mechanical e-brakes has an advantage over t-case mounted e-brakes. Say driving on a highway and you lose braking power, you can decellerate first then feather the e-brake when you slow down. Also in case you need to stop right away I would tend to think that the caliper e-brake would be better. Imagine in the same situation for t-case e-brakes, that may make you brake sideways due to the differentials? Also the tremenduous shock that will put on your diff gears and prop shaft.

Thanks Wayne!
At one time, it was very common for vehicles to have the e-brake at the rear of the transmission. It was also very common for them to have oil from a leaking transmission seal, making the ebrake useless. I have had the driveline ebrake and much prefer the ebrake on each rear wheel.

Using the hydraulic brakes for an emergency brake defeats the purpose of the emergency brake in my opinion. There are many reasons the hydraulic brakes can fail. If they do fail, the mechanical e-brake can stop the vehicle. It is my understanding, most states, if not all, require a mechanical e-brake on vehicles driven on public streets.
__________________
'91 EFI, DD, Hardtop, Partial EXO, A/C, Warn 8000 winch, 100 AMP GM Alt, Toy Celica P/S, TT YJ SPOA M/L, 5-leaf YJ, DT 8000 shocks, TT Knuckle Over Steering, Mighty Kong, 6.5 TC, Evil Twins, TT Full Skid Plate, Diff Guards, Fuel Tank Skid, Rock Sliders, Anti-Wrap Bar w/Axle Truss, Panhard Bar, Cooper SST - 30x9.5x15, 8" wide 2-1/2" BS wheels, Maxima rear Disc w/ebrake, rear locker, Thumb Throttle, CB Radio, towed 4 down








Reddog1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2013, 10:04 AM   #79
azulebleu
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: metro manila, philippines
Posts: 146
Rep Power: 7134
azulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond reputeazulebleu has a reputation beyond repute
Wayne,

Now I get what you're saying. I always thought that the adapter is pivoting on the original hole. Adaptor is really not moving hence you have more leverage because of this adaptor, genius!
Sorry I did not get it the first time , am thinking if I will copy what you did or weld the adaptor in place.

Mechanical e-brakes on calipers are the better option. Safer, more reliable, easier to maintain, will not damage your drivetrain.
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]De-Islamize the Philippines.
azulebleu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2013, 03:22 PM   #80
Reddog1
 
Reddog1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: El Dorado, California
Posts: 5,579
Rep Power: 78000
Reddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond repute
Now you have it. I think most vehicles want about 3 to 6 clicks on the handbrake. Less and the brakes might drag, more and it takes longer to apply.

I preferred to bolt my adapter, that way it is easier to modify if I want to change it, and I wanted to retain the e-brake lever in its OEM configuration. I can change the lever to stock by simply unbolting the adapter.

There is a ebrake cable mounting bracket spot welded to the floor of the Zuk, about 6-inches before the cable connection to the ebrake lever. It too should be dropped down a couple of inches for better alignment. I'm thinking make a new bracket and bolting it to the brace.

It works okay without moving it, but it would probably be best moved. I have not moved mine as yet. Only been about a year, no need to hurry.
__________________
'91 EFI, DD, Hardtop, Partial EXO, A/C, Warn 8000 winch, 100 AMP GM Alt, Toy Celica P/S, TT YJ SPOA M/L, 5-leaf YJ, DT 8000 shocks, TT Knuckle Over Steering, Mighty Kong, 6.5 TC, Evil Twins, TT Full Skid Plate, Diff Guards, Fuel Tank Skid, Rock Sliders, Anti-Wrap Bar w/Axle Truss, Panhard Bar, Cooper SST - 30x9.5x15, 8" wide 2-1/2" BS wheels, Maxima rear Disc w/ebrake, rear locker, Thumb Throttle, CB Radio, towed 4 down








Reddog1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2013, 09:12 AM   #81
boxcar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Astoria Oregon
Posts: 88
Rep Power: 0
boxcar is an unknown quantity at this point
Quote:
Originally Posted by cygnus x-1 View Post
3 bolts is enough for the mount plate to axle housing. Even crappy grade 2 bolts have enough shear strength for this application. The brakes will slip well before the bolts break.

C|
WOWAH there big boy.


http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts..._strength.html

I think I'd opt for at least grade 8
boxcar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2016, 09:01 AM   #82
Spokerider
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 213
Rep Power: 347
Spokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond repute
Fantastic write up Wayne, thank you!

I'm about to embark on a rear disc swap using 1992 240sx rear calipers and Trail Toughs basic swap kit that is made for Samurai calipers. I will have to make my own caliper mounts that are between the calipers and TT's plate.

Question about the parking brake........has anyone found a parking brake lever from a donor car that is already "long enough" for this conversion? Maybe from a nissan or other import? Obviously, modifying the zuk lever works as Wayne has demonstrated, but if there was a drop-in equivalent, that would be even easier.

Anyone done this?
Spokerider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2016, 11:40 AM   #83
Reddog1
 
Reddog1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: El Dorado, California
Posts: 5,579
Rep Power: 78000
Reddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond repute
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spokerider View Post
Obviously, modifying the zuk lever works as Wayne has demonstrated, but if there was a drop-in equivalent, that would be even easier.
It really cannot get any easier than making the lever adapter. It only requires three holes in a piece of 1"x1/2" tubing. You need not even unbolt your lever. Simply unbolt the e-brake cable, install the adapter (2-bolts), re-attach the cable. I think plus or minus 1/4" on the extension would be okay. It is such a simple piece a couple of tries is no big deal.

If you really want it nice, you can extend the brackets that hold e-brake cable housing about an inch. Works without it, but would look better with it.

I think I posted it in my fab write-up, but I strongly suggest bolting the Maxima plates to the Trail Tough plates. Depending on your spring setup, it can be a close fit.
__________________
'91 EFI, DD, Hardtop, Partial EXO, A/C, Warn 8000 winch, 100 AMP GM Alt, Toy Celica P/S, TT YJ SPOA M/L, 5-leaf YJ, DT 8000 shocks, TT Knuckle Over Steering, Mighty Kong, 6.5 TC, Evil Twins, TT Full Skid Plate, Diff Guards, Fuel Tank Skid, Rock Sliders, Anti-Wrap Bar w/Axle Truss, Panhard Bar, Cooper SST - 30x9.5x15, 8" wide 2-1/2" BS wheels, Maxima rear Disc w/ebrake, rear locker, Thumb Throttle, CB Radio, towed 4 down








Reddog1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2016, 09:38 PM   #84
Spokerider
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 213
Rep Power: 347
Spokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks for the reply Wayne.

Yes, I'll prolly end up modifying the parking lever as suggested. I weld and have all kinds of scrap steel to choose from.

I'm using these 1992 240 sx calipers;
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...A119B1222.html

They mount on the back side of the rotors on the 240sx car. Also, the 240sx does not have a separate caliper mounting plate like the maxima does. The calipers mount onto the rear knuckles, that have the large and unwieldy brackets as part of the knuckle assembly.....leaving me to make my own from 3/8ths steel plate. Would maxima mounts work? dunno, I can't find any in the wreckers around here.

With just holding the 240sx caliper up to / against the TT bracket, I can see that the hole spacing on the TT bracket is just a bit shy of what the 240sx caliper hole spacing is. I will need to elongate the TT bracket holes a little to accommodate the calipers. I realize the TT brackets are machined for Samurai calipers, and pretty much expected to have to do some modifications for correct fitment.

One question I have regarding caliper fitment please, is; were the caliper mounting holes in the TT bracket in the correct position to be matched up with the maxima plate holes? And by using the TT bracket holes, did they place the caliper and pads in the correct position, at the circumference of the Samurai rotor? If this worked for your maxima calipers, it may just well work for the 240sx calipers too. I have yet to make templates and temporarily install the TT parts and calipers for fitment / determining what and how I need to fab for.

I have the TT SPOA kit with YJ springs, steel wheels with 2.5" backset, no wheel spacers.

Thank you for your thoughts!
Spokerider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2016, 10:58 PM   #85
Reddog1
 
Reddog1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: El Dorado, California
Posts: 5,579
Rep Power: 78000
Reddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond repute
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spokerider View Post
Thanks for the reply Wayne.
You are welcome.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spokerider View Post
Yes, I'll prolly end up modifying the parking lever as suggested. I weld and have all kinds of scrap steel to choose from. !
Do not over think the ebrake extension. Look at the photos I posted, it is very simple.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spokerider View Post
I'm using these 1992 240 sx calipers;
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...A119B1222.html!
Respectfully, many calipewrs will work. My post was with the calipers I stated. The key is having the ebrake on the calipers to work pulling in the right direction. The calipers I posted will definitely do that, although others might. My objective was to use the stock Samurai ebrake cable with no modification to the cable. My install, with the parts stated, does that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spokerider View Post
They mount on the back side of the rotors on the 240sx car. Also, the 240sx does not have a separate caliper mounting plate like the maxima does. The calipers mount onto the rear knuckles, that have the large and unwieldy brackets as part of the knuckle assembly.....leaving me to make my own from 3/8ths steel plate. Would maxima mounts work? dunno, I can't find any in the wreckers around here. !
You do not necessary need the Maxima mounting plates in my post. They can be scratch fabricated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spokerider View Post
With just holding the 240sx caliper up to / against the TT bracket, I can see that the hole spacing on the TT bracket is just a bit shy of what the 240sx caliper hole spacing is. I will need to elongate the TT bracket holes a little to accommodate the calipers. I realize the TT brackets are machined for Samurai calipers, and pretty much expected to have to do some modifications for correct fitment. !
Without photos, I really can't provide much on this. The photos I posted shows the modification to the Trail Tough brackets that I made.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spokerider View Post
One question I have regarding caliper fitment please, is; were the caliper mounting holes in the TT bracket in the correct position to be matched up with the maxima plate holes? And by using the TT bracket holes, did they place the caliper and pads in the correct position, at the circumference of the Samurai rotor? If this worked for your maxima calipers, it may just well work for the 240sx calipers too. I have yet to make templates and temporarily install the TT parts and calipers for fitment / determining what and how I need to fab for. !
Without photos, I find your question to be very confusing. I used the TT adapter only to retain the axle bearing and a place to mount the Maxima caliper mounting plate. The only holes on the TT adapter I used was the four for mounting the TT adapter plate to the axle housing. No modification of these holes were required.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spokerider View Post
I have the TT SPOA kit with YJ springs, steel wheels with 2.5" backset, no wheel spacers.
This is the same SPOA kit and wheels I used.

I suggest you only tack weld to insure fit.

Wayne
__________________
'91 EFI, DD, Hardtop, Partial EXO, A/C, Warn 8000 winch, 100 AMP GM Alt, Toy Celica P/S, TT YJ SPOA M/L, 5-leaf YJ, DT 8000 shocks, TT Knuckle Over Steering, Mighty Kong, 6.5 TC, Evil Twins, TT Full Skid Plate, Diff Guards, Fuel Tank Skid, Rock Sliders, Anti-Wrap Bar w/Axle Truss, Panhard Bar, Cooper SST - 30x9.5x15, 8" wide 2-1/2" BS wheels, Maxima rear Disc w/ebrake, rear locker, Thumb Throttle, CB Radio, towed 4 down









Last edited by Reddog1; 01-18-2016 at 11:05 PM.
Reddog1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2016, 01:34 PM   #86
Spokerider
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 213
Rep Power: 347
Spokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond repute
[QUOTE ]

Without photos, I find your question to be very confusing. I used the TT adapter only to retain the axle bearing and a place to mount the Maxima caliper mounting plate. The only holes on the TT adapter I used was the four for mounting the TT adapter plate to the axle housing. No modification of these holes were required.

[/QUOTE]

I'll try to reword what I'm wanting to know....

Did you use the large holes in the "ears" of the TT bracket for mounting your caliper onto? It's hard to tell in the pics. I was thinking that the caliper mount bolts went through BOTH the TT bracket and the maxima plate? no?

I was wanting to know if the large TT bracket holes were in the correct position, so that when the caliper was bolted to it, it too was in the right position over the rotor.....all of that assuming that you used the TT bracket large holes.

Hopefully it's more clear this time.
Spokerider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2016, 02:01 PM   #87
Reddog1
 
Reddog1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: El Dorado, California
Posts: 5,579
Rep Power: 78000
Reddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond repute
This photo is the TT and Maxima mounting plates before I removed the welds and rotated the Maxima plates.



I used the four holes of the TT bracket to mount the TT plate to the axle housing. I did not use the two big holes (for Suzuki caliper mounting) in the TT bracket.

I used the part of the Maxima mounting bracket that has the holes for mounting the Maxima calipers.

I installed the TT bracket, and rotor. Then positioned the Maxima bracket (caliper installed) to clear the springs, position the caliper bleed screw, and direct the Maxima ebrake in the correct direction.

The photo shows the Maxima bracket on top of the TT bracket.

It is important to note the thickness of the two plates is critical to properly center the caliper on the rotor. If I remember correctly, in one direction you can use washer shims to space the caliper. Pay close attention to this, and adjust accordingly. If done improperly, your calipers will drag.
__________________
'91 EFI, DD, Hardtop, Partial EXO, A/C, Warn 8000 winch, 100 AMP GM Alt, Toy Celica P/S, TT YJ SPOA M/L, 5-leaf YJ, DT 8000 shocks, TT Knuckle Over Steering, Mighty Kong, 6.5 TC, Evil Twins, TT Full Skid Plate, Diff Guards, Fuel Tank Skid, Rock Sliders, Anti-Wrap Bar w/Axle Truss, Panhard Bar, Cooper SST - 30x9.5x15, 8" wide 2-1/2" BS wheels, Maxima rear Disc w/ebrake, rear locker, Thumb Throttle, CB Radio, towed 4 down








Reddog1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2016, 08:52 PM   #88
Spokerider
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 213
Rep Power: 347
Spokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond repute
Ok thank you Wayne, that clears it up.
I'll make up some plates from 3/8ths material that look / function similar to your maxima plates. I'll use bolts to secure them together and prolly weld the edges too.

Will washers work for shimming the calipers?
I'll need to re read this thread to find out what the approx thickness of the shim material needs to be.
Spokerider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2016, 11:10 PM   #89
Reddog1
 
Reddog1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: El Dorado, California
Posts: 5,579
Rep Power: 78000
Reddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond repute
It has been over four years since I did my conversion, and my memory is not what it once was. Keep this in mind with my responses to your questions.

I think 3/8' thick material is about the thickness of the Maxima plates. there is really no reason to weld the edges. Think about it, you do not weld the TT plates to the axle housing.

Using various thickness of washers on the two caliper mounting holes work just fine. In all probability, you will need no shimming. Do not be concerned with shimming, till you get it all assembled. You probably will be wasting your thoughts.

I found positioning the caliper for the ebrake cable to be the biggest challenge. Primarily because I did not want to modify the existing cable or housing. There are several options if you cut/modify the stock ebrake cable and housing.
__________________
'91 EFI, DD, Hardtop, Partial EXO, A/C, Warn 8000 winch, 100 AMP GM Alt, Toy Celica P/S, TT YJ SPOA M/L, 5-leaf YJ, DT 8000 shocks, TT Knuckle Over Steering, Mighty Kong, 6.5 TC, Evil Twins, TT Full Skid Plate, Diff Guards, Fuel Tank Skid, Rock Sliders, Anti-Wrap Bar w/Axle Truss, Panhard Bar, Cooper SST - 30x9.5x15, 8" wide 2-1/2" BS wheels, Maxima rear Disc w/ebrake, rear locker, Thumb Throttle, CB Radio, towed 4 down








Reddog1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2016, 11:39 AM   #90
Spokerider
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 213
Rep Power: 347
Spokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond reputeSpokerider has a reputation beyond repute
Thanks Wayne, those are all good points.

I will aim for using the Sanurai parking brake cables, but, I did grab the 240sx rear cables in the event I need to take parts from it for configuring the cables.
Spokerider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2016, 12:23 PM   #91
Reddog1
 
Reddog1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: El Dorado, California
Posts: 5,579
Rep Power: 78000
Reddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond reputeReddog1 has a reputation beyond repute
I too got the Maxima ebrake cables just in case I could not get the Samurai cables to work. I figured worse case, I could cut the ends off the Samurai cables and use cable clamps to join the Maxima and Samurai cables. I think it would have looked tacky, but would be functional. However, I did figure out how to fabricate a Maxima to Samurtai cable adapter.

Wayne
__________________
'91 EFI, DD, Hardtop, Partial EXO, A/C, Warn 8000 winch, 100 AMP GM Alt, Toy Celica P/S, TT YJ SPOA M/L, 5-leaf YJ, DT 8000 shocks, TT Knuckle Over Steering, Mighty Kong, 6.5 TC, Evil Twins, TT Full Skid Plate, Diff Guards, Fuel Tank Skid, Rock Sliders, Anti-Wrap Bar w/Axle Truss, Panhard Bar, Cooper SST - 30x9.5x15, 8" wide 2-1/2" BS wheels, Maxima rear Disc w/ebrake, rear locker, Thumb Throttle, CB Radio, towed 4 down








Reddog1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2016, 02:35 PM   #92
cygnus x-1
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Beach Park, IL
Posts: 243
Rep Power: 11630
cygnus x-1 has a reputation beyond reputecygnus x-1 has a reputation beyond reputecygnus x-1 has a reputation beyond reputecygnus x-1 has a reputation beyond reputecygnus x-1 has a reputation beyond reputecygnus x-1 has a reputation beyond reputecygnus x-1 has a reputation beyond reputecygnus x-1 has a reputation beyond reputecygnus x-1 has a reputation beyond reputecygnus x-1 has a reputation beyond reputecygnus x-1 has a reputation beyond repute
Quote:
Originally Posted by boxcar View Post
WOWAH there big boy.


http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts..._strength.html

I think I'd opt for at least grade 8

I just now saw this post and figured I would address it just for posterity. Before making this statement I actually did some rough calculations and got a total shear load of about 2000lbs at the axle mounting bolts. Assuming we're using fine thread 5/16" bolts (grade 2), the breaking strength of a single bolt is 4300lbs, so even a single bolt would be strong enough *in theory*. And in this case there are 3, so I still stand by my statement that with 3x 5/16" grade 2 bolts, the brakes would slip before the bolts break.

However, because there are a lot of variables involved in this sort of calculation, you want a healthy safety factor just in case. According to that chart, the safe working load of our 5/16" bolt is only 340 lbs, which is a safety factor of about 12. That seems rather excessive, but if we assume it to be valid, we need bolts with a safe working load of about 2000/3 = 667lbs. Multiply that by our 12x safety factor and we get 8000lbs. This puts us into the range of grade 8 at 5/16" diameter. So, the advice is using grade 8 bolts is definitely safe.

Now what did I use? I used 8mm class 8.8 bolts which are equivalent to 5/16" grade 5. I think these provide plenty of safety margin (around 10x) and they're metric, so they match the rest of the vehicle.


C|
cygnus x-1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Brake Booster Reddog1 Technical Section 39 08-06-2012 10:37 PM
How To Install Toyota IFS Power Steering btrebil666 Build-up Garage 14 06-09-2012 01:03 AM
Detroit EZ Locker install questions Reddog1 Axle Talk 14 10-24-2011 11:54 AM
Nissan Maxima Rear Disc Conversion JasonR Technical Section 16 01-31-2011 10:55 PM
Best Brake Caliper prowler Technical Section 5 04-30-2010 05:56 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:07 AM.

design by Themes by Design

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2005-2017 Zukikrawlers.com