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Old 07-27-2012, 12:46 AM   #1
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1.6 16v Install...Finally...Tons of Pics

Well, this has been a long time coming, but never had a place to work...So, here is my 16v converision installation...Enjoy!

Quarter Century old motor had to go...180K on the clock with no smoke and ran great with no noises...I just never really trusted it to go on long trips, so I'm hopefully looking forward to that with the new-to-me engine.




The 1.3 removed...Left the wiring for everything in the engine compartment, as back up if this 1.6 is too fitful to run correctly.

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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt


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Old 07-27-2012, 12:58 AM   #2
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"1.6 16v Install...Finally...Tons of Pics"

ya got me.

Nice try, Bill. (gizmodo joke)

2 does not a ton make. Waiting for the rest.




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Old 07-27-2012, 01:03 AM   #3
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I scored the motor from a girl who just had her 1.6 replaced in her Auto 4 door (1993) Sidekick, but then crashed in a water ditch and caught huge air and broke the suspension, totaling the vehicle...She had her Grandpa deliver my list of items I needed pulled from the motor in addition to the engine...They delivered them:

Complete Engine
Complete wiring harness (interior and engine bay, with fuse block)
Air box (complete with MAF sensor and rubber tube to intake with clamps.
Starter (auto starter too, nice)
Alternator
All engine brackets (including motor mounts)
Disty
Coil/Igniter
All hoses and lines in tact, not disconnected or cut (except the 5/16 inlet fuel line to the motor)
Computer with all relays (fuel, main, etc.) and mounting brackets (both)
Charcoal Canister
Other stuff, forget right now. Oh, yeah

The Cluster too (had metal VSV)



In hinesight I would have asked for the down tube off the exhaust complete with the cat...





How I saw it the first time...I got to start and run it, let it run and watch the temp gauge while listening to the engine for noises...Ran fine.





Quite a while after it was delivered.





Stock wiring harness (complete) excepting I believe some Auto tranny (4spd) wiring.






Don't think I have a pic of the Misc components that the deal came with.
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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt



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Old 07-27-2012, 01:09 AM   #4
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So it is in progress- or completed and running? What you get the 16v for?
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:28 AM   #5
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This is how the wiring harness came back from ZOR (Myron)...Very Nice, compacted and neat, with the fuse block, code thrower port, test port, all ready to run to the correct sensors and plugs complete with tags on all wires and notes specific to your wiring harness. It creates an auxillary source for power (extra fuse block) and keeps the strain off the stock wiring harness and provides power for fuel/engine management basically separate from the stock harness. Very nice.



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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt



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Old 07-27-2012, 01:33 AM   #6
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Progress, but it runs. I'll add my impressions in this thread, but just wanted to show my install in steps, in case anyone was curious for extra details regarding a 1.6 16v swap.
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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt


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Old 07-27-2012, 01:36 AM   #7
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I paid alot more than I read about everyone else paying, but this motor is rare in my area. $800 for the motor and all requested components delivered from 1.5 hours south of me....I also paid the girl's Grandpa for his gas.
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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt


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Old 07-27-2012, 01:48 AM   #8
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I bought an E-2000 high pressure pump from Autozone ($130 or so, I think.)



I went to the local pick n pull and scored this frame rail fuel pump mount from a a late 80's F-150 complete with pig tail (quick disconnect)...

The mount has a nice thick foam insert and rubber isolating bushings, which is nice for noise/vibe control. I think it was $10-15 or less, can't remember.

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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt


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Old 07-27-2012, 01:54 AM   #9
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Got the Trail Tough Motor/Tranny adapter kit. Also, bought stock motor mounts from Rock Auto...We will see how long they last.

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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt


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Old 07-27-2012, 02:05 AM   #10
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Took a while but finally got my hands on a Stock Samurai oil pan and pick up tube....I couldn't use mine, as my truck is my DD.

I did the pick up tube mod to run the 1.3 oil pan so I could run a small lift (YJ spring under).

The mod (for me) consisted of cutting off the nipple of the 1.6 pick up tube that goes into the oil pump and sliding it over the 1.3 pick up tube nipple which it fits nice and fairly snug, but I used JB weld when I slid it on and cleaned it nicely and let cure (for a few months )...Then I just had to mount the 1.3 pick up tube (used metal clamps to secure it). I made sure the 1.3 pick up tube's strainer was .3-.5" inches from the bottom of the oil pan. I thought that was sufficient.

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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt



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Old 07-27-2012, 02:12 AM   #11
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More to come, it's late.
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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt


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Old 07-27-2012, 10:46 AM   #12
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very nice hope to be doing this soon but with a 3speed auto
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardLuk View Post
Took a while but finally got my hands on a Track/Kick oil pan and pick up tube.

I did the pick up tube mod to run the 1.3 oil pan so I could run a small lift (YJ spring under).

The mod (for me) consisted of cutting off the nipple of the 1.6 pick up tube that goes into the oil pump and sliding it over the 1.3 pick up tube nipple which it fits nice and fairly snug, but I used JB weld when I slid it on and cleaned it nicely and let cure (for a few months )...Then I just had to mount the 1.3 pick up tube (used metal clamps to secure it). I made sure the 1.3 pick up tube's strainer was .3-.5" inches from the bottom of the oil pan. I thought that was sufficient.

I won't go so far as to say I invented that mod but that's what I did with mine. I wasn't at all interested in building a "Frankenstein" oil pan (which was all I had to go on when I did my swap). I've put 40k on my 16v with the stock 1.3 pan. The ONLY issue came when I had to drop the pan for something else. The two back bolts were VERY difficult & time consuming to get back in. I'm still not sure I got a good seal. Next time I'll start them first. Other than that just keep a close eye on the oil level (you don't have as much "reserve").
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:53 PM   #14
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Forgot to mention the list of parts that were ordered from Trail tough, Rock Auto and bought locally.

Cam Shaft Seal
Front/Rear Crankshalf seals
Timing Belt, tensioner bearing
Rear Tail Shaft seal (tranny)
Alternator Belt (1.6 16v)
Power Steering Belt (36.25" -- Using the Trail Tough 1.3 power steering pump mount.)
Samurai Motor Mounts (rubber mounts)
Samurai Tranny Mount
1993 1.6 16v down tube gasket (between exhaust manifold and down tube to cat) FEDERAL Sidekick not California.
1993 1.6 16v down tube (NO flange on the end Unfortunately, but new) Has a double pipe, not a big single pipe
1.3 One Core Aluminum Radiator (Low Range)
New Clutch Assembly (Clutch Disk, Throw out bearing, pilot bearing, pressure plate and alignment tool).
New Gauges (electrical senders -- Volt, Oil pressure, Water Temp) Autometer 1.5 tripple gauge
Sandwich Adapter for Oil Pressure Sender (electrical sender) the oil filter screws on the adapter and it has 4x 1/8 NPT ports (with plugs) -- (oil pressure gauge).
Radiator Hose Adapter (electrical sender) with 1/8 NPT port (temp gauge)
New T-stat and gasket
Various Metric Bolts and nuts from Ace Hardware
High Pressure EFI fuel hose clamps
Various colors and size wire, solder, electrical connectors, etc.
Valve Cover Gasket
Oil Pan Gasket
5 feet of light hydraulic hose (.5") (relocate the Power Steering Pump Reservoir)
5 feet of light hydraulic hose (7/16 or 3/8" IIRC) (relocate PS pump Reservoir)
Right Angle Hose (For the outlet from the heater core to the engine)...The part is Gates part# 28460 and cut to 2x4"...It fits perfectly like it's stock.


There are some other random things like wire loom, aluminum plate (fuel pump mount), electrical tape, heat shrink tube, etc.,etc,...

I've forgotten a few things.



The water pump was smooth and very new in condition, so it stayed. (New when installed 2 months prior to her totaling the suspenion)

All of the above has been installed. (this has been a 22 month long project collecting parts)
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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt



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Old 07-28-2012, 12:19 AM   #15
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The modified wiring harness was my biggest struggle, but it came out nice.

Had to find where I wanted the holes drilled in the firewall that allow the wires that need to go to the cab work without making the wires too long/short for their respective connectors/plugs . (Copied Bungee basically).



Used both 1.5" and 1.75" hole saws (IIRC)...Based on the width, using a caliper, of the grommets on my wiring harness.




BTW, that spot in the fire wall where the holes were cut has nothing behind it, so a drill going through too quick doesn't really matter.
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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt



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Old 07-28-2012, 12:28 AM   #16
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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt


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Old 07-28-2012, 12:35 AM   #17
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Just some pics of the two motors...1.3 was still in good condition.



The 1.6 being installed

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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt


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Old 07-28-2012, 12:47 AM   #18
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The 1.6 16v installed.



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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt


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Old 07-28-2012, 01:26 AM   #19
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There are several stumbing blocks to this conversion...This is how I overcame these:

1) First the hood will not close using the Trail Tough motor/tranny adapter kit. I used a sawsall and made body spacers out of this (the tire). (4x spacers -- two under the front of each fender)...I used the existing rubber body spacer under the front of each fender and placed them under the body under the front of the doors (below firewall). This gave me enough lift to close the hood....I also raised the hood at it's hinges some and used 3 washers and new (longer) bolts at the front of the hood, where on both the passenger and driver side the rubber bushings sit on the fenders, when the hood is closed. Between all three mods the hood closed easily.

I could have used used T-case mounts under the front of the fenders for a small body lift, as the studs on the t-case mounts fit perfectly through the frame mounts, but only had one, so had to improvise with the tire.

I had to drill the tire spacers out huge to fit the bolts that secure the front of the fenders to the frame...Though, the tire is strong reinforced rubber with steel belting, so I'm not worried about these ho-made spacers failing.



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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt



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Old 07-28-2012, 01:45 AM   #20
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2) The 1.3 clutch cable using the 1.3 clutch cable bracket (mounts to 1.3 engine) doesn't work on this motor (1.6 16v 4spd Auto motor) which natually did not come with a Clutch Bracket. Because the 1.3 cable doesn't get taught enough before running out of adjustment using the stock 1.3 clutch bracket, I had to improvise...I had to take off the Intake Support (metal bracket) and use the holes it was using and bolt the 1.3 clutch bracket for "mock up" in it's place...Then had to decide how much to move the boss, that captures the clutch cable adjustment nuts, over...My friend Lo moved it like 1.75 inches and rewelded and reinforced it. This gave me ample room to adjust the 1.3 clutch cable tighter or looser, if needed.



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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt



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Old 07-28-2012, 02:03 AM   #21
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3) My 1.6 16v had the inlet (to the motor) fuel line cut...I read on here somewhere to do this:

If you cut the rubber line with the pressed fitting off you end up with a nice 5/16 semi barbed tube. I unbolted the inlet from the fuel rail, and used a Dremel to carefully cut off the the rubber and pressed fitting, w/out gouging the the tube.




This is the 5/16 barbed end of the fuel inlet tube bolted back on to the fuel rail.

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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt


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Old 07-28-2012, 02:24 AM   #22
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4) The Heater Core hoses needed to be hooked up and I was lucky that my local Napa had the Gates hose in stock (see post #14)...Makes a nice and clean connection...

Here is the place on the motor where the outlet (I think, maybe inlet??) of the heater core connects:






In the pic above you can also see where the vacuum hose (not shown) connects to the big nipple tube on the firewall, that comes from the brake booster canister, which has a hard metal line running acrossed the firewall, and connects to the big nipple tube on the upper intake.


Here is the Gates Hose all cut down ready to install.



Here it is intalled.

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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt



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Old 07-28-2012, 02:35 AM   #23
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5) The 1.3 oil pan mod was needed for my purposes (low lift). I only have 2.5" of lift with the TT YJ kit SPUA...I mentioned how I did this above in post #10. (no pics of this mod )


(Except I did not mention I had to modify the 1.3 oil pan by cutting some of it's baffle out and pound the wall in the back of the pan to clear the crank bearing retainer, so the pan would clear and bolt up while also sealing and not causing interference with the new 1.3 flywheel. This mod was done in addition to the hybrid pick up tube mod, mentioned above in post #10).
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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt



Last edited by HardLuk; 07-28-2012 at 02:47 AM.
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Old 07-28-2012, 02:39 AM   #24
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What's the middle driverside firewall hole for? Can't tell/see.

Would make a decent air intake from cab to keep it clean/dry (probably be loud too).
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Old 07-28-2012, 02:59 AM   #25
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6) An external inline fuel pump had to be used (Airtex E2000 -- Ford style external High Pressure fuel pump)...I had to figure out how to mount this so I made this, using the already mentioned Ford F-150 pump frame mount and an aluminum sheet.

The pic doesn't show it, but I extended the pink/black fuel pump wire in the modified wiring harness...I ran it through the fire wall and down the tranny tunnel under the body....I ran it in plastic wiring loom. That wire connected to the positive + on the fuel pump and I ran the negative - to the bolt that tightens the aluminum mount down (the holes are from the unuseable emergency brake cable bracket).





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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt


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