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DesertZuki
03-06-2006, 01:00 PM
When the last clutch gave out I replaced it with an aftermarket clutch (don't remember the brand; never heard of it before). But it was a $120 clutch kit. The new pressure plate had fingers (springs) that were three to four times as beefy as the stock pressure plate. I didn't have the flywheel resurfaced (ran out of time) but it wasn't scored or cracked.

This clutch appears to have almost no "grey" area. It's as if it is either fully engaged or fully disengaged. I can't drive it on the rocks it is so bad; I can't get the clutch to maintain a slip unless I'm on a smooth surface. My wife even complains about it when she drives around town.

I'm really, really close to getting new gears, (that would solve the "can't drive it on the rocks" problem) but that doesn't fix the clutch issue. Buying and installing a new clutch may be an option. With the gears, I'll probably just run a stock clutch or do the cheap Auto Zone clutch.

Anyway, any ideas on why the clutch is so grabby? Is it because I didn't turn the flywheel? Is it because of the heavy-duty springs on the pressure plate? Is this a common problem with some brands of clutch?

mahana79
03-06-2006, 04:37 PM
i would think it is your beefy springs int he pressure plate. those are what causes the tension to be placed on disk. My Petroworks clutch was the same way. Centerforces are supposed to be alot easier on the leg due to their design. they have lighter springs but they have flyweights. as the engine speed increases the centrifigal forces on the flyweights applies more tension on the disk creating more clamping force yet still keeping a nice soft feel at idle to slow engine speeds.

zukking01
03-06-2006, 06:21 PM
I agree with mahana79. I have a centerforce2 dual friction in my zuk with a 1.6 and I dont have any problems with grabby clutch. It is easy to drive on and off road. I recomend the centerforce as it is only 200-230. Thats pretty good.

holeshot
03-06-2006, 07:55 PM
I would bet your grapy clutch is do to not having the flywheel resurfaced.
As your old clutch wore into the FW it causes uneven spots in the FW. You may not be able to see this with your eye, but that used FW is not flat and true, but your new clutch disk is.
Its not uncommon to remove 20 to 30 thousands of meterial off a FW when resurfacing.
I have resurfaced several Samurai FW and hundres of heavy truck FW.
You could try to "bernish" the clutch into the FW. Put tranny in a higher gear like 4th rev the motor to about 2000 rms and slip the clutch for a few seconds. Repeat a few times. Doing this will seat the disk into the FW. I've done this alot of times on heavy trucks.
Or you could pull the trans, resurface the FW and put all back together.

DesertZuki
03-06-2006, 08:18 PM
I had heard that the centrifical clutches, like the Centerforce, are only good for high RPM applications (like mud-boggin, sand dunes, etc) and aren't any good for low RPM applications (like rocks). So that's not true. Good to know, thanks guys, I learned something.

And I'll try the bernishing trick and see if that helps.

I think I'm going to end my clutch woes. Even with my old clutch and 4.16s in the t-case I didn't feel like I was in control on the rocks. I was looking seriously at getting more gears but I just can't do it right now. I have an Sidekick auto trans (4 speed) that's left over from the engine swap. I think swap that in.

Thanks all..

mahana79
03-06-2006, 11:11 PM
I had heard that the centrifical clutches, like the Centerforce, are only good for high RPM applications (like mud-boggin, sand dunes, etc) and aren't any good for low RPM applications (like rocks). So that's not true. Good to know, thanks guys, I learned something.



do the centricial clutches work best at higher RPM's.....yes they work and feel more like a stock clutch at lower RPM just little bit better.

purevil71
03-06-2006, 11:17 PM
Man, I love my CF D/F....my old clutch was grabby like what your talking about. I had it adjusted about as far out as I could and still work just to smooth it out some. Ran it about 4 months that way, then got my CF.
Still have that old clutch in the basement for a just-in-case...lol

DesertZuki
08-29-2006, 06:36 AM
...You could try to "bernish" the clutch into the FW. Put tranny in a higher gear like 4th rev the motor to about 2000 rms and slip the clutch for a few seconds. Repeat a few times. Doing this will seat the disk into the FW...Okay, so I'm a little slow getting back to posting this but I did two things. I bernished the clutch just as Holeshot described here and I poured some 90 weight into my cheap clutch cable.

The burnishing did help. There was a noticeable difference (thanks Holeshot). The oil helped just as much or maybe a little more in that non OEM clutch cable (I know... I know...)

Last time out I did a pretty good job of not killing it and no jerking the rig around. Thanks everyone for all the help!

holeshot
08-29-2006, 07:02 AM
The burnishing did help. There was a noticeable difference (thanks Holeshot)

Glad to here it worked out for you. Only took 5 months to reply back, that must be some sort of record here.:funny:

DesertZuki
08-29-2006, 05:40 PM
...Only took 5 months to reply back, that must be some sort of record here.:funny:Yeah, I'm nothing if not quick on the replies...
whip

Itsmejoe231
08-29-2006, 06:49 PM
Good followup!!

HardLuk
08-31-2006, 04:13 AM
Got to say, always resurface the flywheel while in there. Those DAMN blue spots (however hard to notice) grab like a son 'o' bitch. Shutttttttttter!

Had the same trouble once. Holeshot knows his stuff.
Glad "Bernishing" the clutch worked for you.

From my experience the Centerforce clutches are very GRABBY with their "on/off" performance....I don't know how you all like them.


Nate