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joe4thgear
03-24-2007, 08:35 PM
So I blew my engine, then I just got the new one in all together today. I cant get it started. It has spark and is getting fuel. Plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor are all new. The engine sounds like it wants to start but it doesnt. Any suggestions?

jbzukin
03-24-2007, 08:55 PM
should fire up even it the timing is close.
bring #1 piston to TDC and take the dist off and check where the rotor is pointing. it will give you an idea if you are close.

hillbilly
03-24-2007, 09:00 PM
should fire up even it the timing is close.
bring #1 piston to TDC and take the dist off and check where the rotor is pointing. it will give you an idea if you are close.

:agree:

joe4thgear
03-24-2007, 09:55 PM
How do you get to TDC and where should the distributor be?

Itsmejoe231
03-24-2007, 10:01 PM
You can remove the #1 spark plug (the plug closest to the front of the engine) and shine a flash light inside the hole and the cylinder will be up where you can see it. That is TDC. Your distributor should pointing at #1.

hillbilly
03-24-2007, 11:16 PM
You can remove the #1 spark plug (the plug closest to the front of the engine) and shine a flash light inside the hole and the cylinder will be up where you can see it. That is TDC. Your distributor should pointing at #1.

It needs to be on the compression stroke at top dead center.Remember the piston comes to top dead center twice per engine cycle.The Ex.stroke and compression stroke.I think I said that right.popcornn

Itsmejoe231
03-24-2007, 11:20 PM
yea you are right. But if you have it one the exhaust stroke you know you are only 180* off.

You can pull the timing belt cover to make sure you are on TDC. There is a mark on the cam gear. Sorry for only half the info.

jackson
03-24-2007, 11:41 PM
are you carbed,and if so are you backfiring through it?

joe4thgear
03-25-2007, 02:00 AM
Yea its carbed. I doesn't get far enough to backfire. If I floor it it gives kind of a poof sound though.

jbzukin
03-25-2007, 09:08 AM
sounds like it is popping through the carb.
when you turn the engine over do it with a socket on the crank pulley.
I think it was hillbilly that suggested this once but something over the plug hole when you trun it over, if it is coming up on compression it will blow out whatever you put there. you can then take a light or a piece of wire and feel the piston at the top.
when you bring #1 to TDC check the timing marks on the cover they should also line up.
then pop the cap and see where the rotor is.

DcR660
03-25-2007, 11:43 AM
It is backfiring. When we were trying to start it sometimes we'd put the pedal to the floor and then it would backfire a lot.

billsbar
03-25-2007, 12:15 PM
sounds like your 180 degrees out

jackson
03-25-2007, 09:42 PM
line your timing marks up and if you are at #1 pull the dist up and spin the rotor to #4 and visa versa.i used the haynes and every time i put an engine or head in the samurai i would end up 180 off and fire it in 3 seconds.i read somewhere a year later there timing instructions put you 180 off.thats why i asked if it was backfiring through the carb you should be real close.

Itsmejoe231
03-25-2007, 09:46 PM
.i read somewhere a year later there timing instructions put you 180 off.thats why i asked if it was backfiring through the carb you should be real close.

That Haynes book messed me all up too. I followed it to a T and it was 180* out. :angry: I didnt know what the heck was going on until a buddy told me those instructions were wrong. lol

CantCrawl
03-26-2007, 10:03 PM
I did the same thing, Followed the book and ended up 180 out.
just pull the dizzy and flip it 180 and itll fire right up!!bigok

joe4thgear
03-26-2007, 11:25 PM
Thanks so much guys, worked like a charm, it runs great. But now I have some clutch problems. I put a new clutch on when I replaced it as far as I know its on correctly, but I was playing in some mud and the clutch was burning like crazy so I stopped. The pedal is a lot softer than it used to be, and it also hops a little bit quicker now when you let the clutch out.

billsbar
03-26-2007, 11:29 PM
you may have it to tight, adjust some cable out .

Billjohn
03-27-2007, 02:40 PM
If the cable feels softer, ther are two things to look at (one easy, one not so easy).
Check the cable for melt/shred points, usually up by the radiator close to the steering box.
If it feels softer, and you feel like part way down there is a *'bump' that you have to push past - it may be a broken tension spring inside the bell housing of the trans. Next time you have it out (or the engine out), look into the front of the trans and you will see the bar that goes across from the outside lever to the 'fingers' that grab your throw-out bearing. You will see the spring to the right on that bar. This spring provides return pressure and smooths out that pressure through the whole cycle.

* the bump can also be a worn out throwout bearing or input shaft...

my87zuk
03-27-2007, 03:55 PM
I did the same thing with the chiltons book. mine wus still f-ed up tho. i wasnt gettin much fuel. i needed a new carb and it was fixed.

joe4thgear
03-28-2007, 01:39 AM
Theres no bump and the cable is good, so just tighten it then? Do I tighten it at the end adjustment or the one thats on the bracket attached to the engine?

Billjohn
03-28-2007, 10:42 AM
Theres no bump and the cable is good, so just tighten it then? Do I tighten it at the end adjustment or the one thats on the bracket attached to the engine?

The adjustment nut on the end is just to adjust the spring pressure. If you have 1/4" of thread coming out the back it should be fine.
Your major adjustments would be at the engine bracket. Pull the cable completely off the bracket to release tension, adjust the nuts so that the cable is just firm and then turn the nut another half turn. You don't want the trans arm to move, just to be firm. Then lock down with the other nut. Then go inside and see how it feels.