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kszuk
02-12-2006, 11:17 AM
We may be starting a new project and thought I'd ask for some opinions here.(sorry if I put this thread in the wrong place)The starting point is a '88 tin top, good running, completely stock, no mods what so ever. The end goal is a reliable daily driver with a wider stance, 33" rubber, and capable of moderate trails. This will probably be street driven 80% of the time so on road manners and general streetability(is that even a word:p )are priority. This will also be done on a super tight budget so we have to choose our mods carefully. Thanks for any input!

blakroze zuki
02-12-2006, 01:43 PM
All I can say is gearing to low will be a pain in the butt. Lockers are great for trails but not so great for daily driving. Lifting is nice with bigger tires, and I run 32's and have no problems, with a lift of 5.5 inches. I think if your looking to keep speed then there is another problem in my mind, if your not looking for speed then you can do a lot. But that is just from a female that just drives the zuki but did nothing in mods myself.

budhazuki
02-12-2006, 02:21 PM
i run 33's with 5.5 spoa and 2 inch body lift with 4.62 rear and front and a 6.4 transfer case and run about 60mph without pushing my stock motor does extremely well on the trail and on the highway also have a locker in the rear may not recomend the locker on a daily driver unless it is an air locker

Grady

DesertZuki
02-12-2006, 02:22 PM
To fit the tires you're going to need at least a spring-over. Check out this link for info on that: http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=174

For wider stance you have two options, larger axles (like Toyota or D44) or wheels with a wider (more negative) off-set.

Don't know what you're thinking of moderate trails, but in my mind you don't really need lockers on both ends for moderate trails. Lockers are great on the trail but can suck on the road.

You're going to need gears so that 1.3 can push the bigger tires. Your options are t-case gears or axle gears or a combination thereof. I'm running 4.16s in the t-case and stock axle gears for 31s. That gives me more speed on the road than I want (70+ is not a problem). You will want deeper gears than that for 33s. Decide how fast you want to travel on the road, and there are gear calculators that'll tell you what RPMs you'll be turning with what gears. Like this one: http://www.4lo.com/calc/gearratio.htm

It's all trade-off; what's good on the road isn't good on the trail, and what's good on the trail is often bad on the road.

purevil71
02-12-2006, 02:51 PM
You go with a SPOA (with 33's unless you want to cut the sheet metal you'll almost have to), look into a good cross-over or hi-steer set up. You just get WAY to much bunp steer with a Z-bar in my opinion.
I know a few guys that run them (Z-bars) and like them, I just prefer a good cross-over myself.

Also, another way of getting a wider stance is with a set of wheels spacers. I had the Spider-Trax 1" spaces when I was running my stock axles and liked them a lot. Just be sure you keep everything nice and tight!

budhazuki
02-12-2006, 02:57 PM
i run a 2" back spaced rim for my 33's nice wider stance

kszuk
02-12-2006, 03:02 PM
Thanks for the input! For the wider stance we're leaning towards wheel spacers. I've talked to the seller and it has aftermarket rims with a wider offset so 1" spacers should be enough. An axle swap won't happen, it adds way too much to the small budget he has to work with. He wants a rear locker, not so much as he needs it as he's spoiled by having one in the truck he's getting rid of. Lockers on the street don't worry us, we've both driven spooled and detroited rigs on the street for quite awhile. Selectables are nice but way too much unless he wins the lottery:p (and he aint old enough to play yet)As for lift, SOA is what we're leaning towards with generous amounts of fender trimming, gotta chop the rust out anyway.

Sally
02-12-2006, 03:02 PM
I ran a TT Z link along with a calmini 3" drop pitman arm to cut down on the bump steer. I liked it and had no steering wobble. Every truck is different and I wouldn't expect the same results as I had with my setup. What ever you decide to go with make sure the links are as parallel to the axle as possible.

notice how strait mine ended up I think thats why i had no bump steer issues.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/D2theJ/Picture020.jpghttp://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/D2theJ/Picture021.jpg

I'm currently running an anti bump steer setup on my DD
http://www.hawksuzukiparts.com/images_calminiparts/p0001646_large.jpg

kszuk
02-12-2006, 03:08 PM
You go with a SPOA (with 33's unless you want to cut the sheet metal you'll almost have to), look into a good cross-over or hi-steer set up. You just get WAY to much bunp steer with a Z-bar in my opinion.
I know a few guys that run them (Z-bars) and like them, I just prefer a good cross-over myself.



If we go SOA, hi-steer/crossover will happen, we're still runnin' a z-bar on my other son's zuk, but I don't care for it, too much bump steer for me. When I went SOA on my rig I built a complete hi-steer/cross-over conversion with heims and IMHO that's only way to go.

purevil71
02-12-2006, 03:21 PM
When I was running my Z-link, I got used to it and knew what to expect when I drove my rig. But, when I got my cross-over I couldn't believe how much better it drove and why I didn't go that route sooner than what I did!