View Full Version : Calling all know-it-alls.
02-20-2007, 01:28 AM
I don't knw what to do anymore!! My engine won't run right past 3000 and it is a critical powerband!
(all 4 digit numbers are measured in RPM)
Misfires at about 5000 with no load (just reving it up)
Misfires and floods out all of 4th and half of 3rd (I have to ease the throttle to get it to 4500 in 3rd)
Has pretty bad gas mileage.
I have tried:
3 teeth both ways on the timing gear (I have no timing belt cover, but I use the knob on the block for TDC, and half the valve cover for a second mark on the cam gear) Best seems to be 1 tooth advanced (cam gear at 180 and crank pulley about 10* advanced (to the left about 1cm from the TDC knob))
Distributor timing from all the way advanced to retarded... seems to be best about 8mm from the most advanced location
There are NO emmisions on this thing compared to my old setup, but there are lot of plugs and re-routes... The vacuum advanced doesn't suck much air at any temperature.
Now... Before you go pointing out things like "some things in the emmisions need to be hooked up", the previous owner set up the emmisions in my rig after he took most his stuff out... I wish I had the diagram so I can draw what went where, cuz I know there are some things that need to be hooked up that I have no clue about... But the previous owner had this thing running really nice in his rig, but he took a lot of things off when he swapped engines...
He also took the EGR out and a LOT of emmision systems... I am thinking about putting a lot of my stuff back on his new stuff...
So what do you guys hink it wrong?
02-20-2007, 02:14 PM
Come on guys!! Lots of views and nobody even throws a bone?? Damn... I though this was the best Zuki forum because there was quick, knowledgable responces, but there are people who know what might be wrong who just don't care to say anything.
Did a compression test and came out with; #1 180lbs #2 175lbs #3 175lbs #4 180lbs...
Spark plugs look like they were burning perfect, but they aren't too fancy, just some $1 spark plugs it looks like.
I got it pretty dialed in, it only missing in 3rd and lots in 4th, but I can go 60 now! Maybe I can get to work on time...
ANYthing is welcome... Tell me how it would be less boring to read the full post! I try to spread it out and bold some things... But newbs with no gammar skills are getting better luck than myself.
02-20-2007, 03:14 PM
sorry i cant help you right now, as for i know diddly squat on the innerds of an engine and what makes things go un-right... AND IM REBUILDING MY 1.3L:funny: .... so im no dam help to you. hopefully one of these PROS ring in... they will...:suzuki:
02-20-2007, 03:53 PM
need more info, lots more
things like what year is it, is the motor the same
is it carbed or efi, and what kind
has it ever run right, if so what have you done to it since then.
if it hasn't do you have any idea what was done before you got it
it still just comes down to gas and spark, one or the other is off.
02-20-2007, 03:54 PM
oh and as a side note, have you checked the inside of the distributer cap and the rotor? what condition are they in?
02-20-2007, 09:30 PM
Go to Acks Faqs, search 'vacuum'. There's a good write-up there on the vacuum line setup on a zuk.
02-20-2007, 10:16 PM
Try some NGK plugs and check your timing. It sounds like your timing is off. You have to get TDC correct and your rotor should be ponting at the #1 plug wire on the distributor. I had to pull my dist. and rotate it a couple of teeth so that it would point at the #1 wire. Just my .02! There are some posts on here nd at ack's on this subject.
02-21-2007, 05:57 AM
I would say a vacuum issue as well. you may be getting the wrong vacuum signal to the dist so it is not advancing properly.
02-21-2007, 07:51 AM
check ACK-site on the vacumn lines, it's real helpful
02-21-2007, 02:25 PM
Wow thanks guys!
It is a newer 1324 (mine was 1289 I guess) and this thing used to run perfect! I rolled over in the car it was in! and it has been through another car after that... Still has pefect vital signs, but some stuff maybe be overlooked... I gotta check the vacuum stuff, or put it all back on.
02-23-2007, 01:16 AM
But the previous owner had this thing running really nice in his rig, but he took a lot of things off when he swapped engines...
you should ask the previous owner for help.its always cool to figure everything out your self,but if he is willing to help you might learn alot
02-23-2007, 01:47 AM
Well, I did talk to him numerous times... His son-in-law knows more than 90% of the people here, but he isn't home much these days... When I get the drivetrain fixed up enough, I will try to ge to tlk to him... Busy realitor...
02-24-2007, 11:03 PM
might be a small mishap of information on my end, but if its a stock sammy carb....try getting the ventrui tube, it works wonders for a 10 dollar part
02-26-2007, 01:42 PM
What do you mean Venturi tube?? Is it that carb mod thing?? I migh need to talk to ZukKing about that.
02-26-2007, 05:10 PM
you can get them at petroworks as well.
this is a write up on the vent tube
02-26-2007, 07:51 PM
Well, I'm gonna try some free stuff first, then I wll talk to ZukKing about that tube...
02-26-2007, 10:32 PM
yea...its well worth the 10 bucks, belive it or not, its a really great improvment with it then not...and plus its ten bucks, (plus shippin) what else costs ten bucks that does wonders? also try a lil sea foam
02-27-2007, 01:03 AM
Well, this engine is probably one of the best un-rebuilt engine out there... 175 lbs on the lowest cylinder... and it was WELL takn care of (It's ot brand new oil in it from the last owner. I don't know what the problem is, but we put a timing light on it and the crank pulley was at about 8degrees advanced, and the flywheel didn't register... but I think it might be that all the vitals on the intake where busted off... there is still those 3-4 plugs in that bundle, but they are hooked and secure, but I think I will just take the carb off, take all the busted crap off, then pull all my "Good stuff" on... If it still doesn't run right, I will put ALL the vacuums on.
But it's the weirdest thing... the Crank pulley lines up with te timing, but the flywheel is off by a lot...
I don't know... as soon as I get a driveline, I will start working on it again.
02-28-2007, 12:41 AM
Ok guys... This is driving me nuts!! I had a fast motor, it only had 150lbs on the hightest cylinder... But it could go 80... and it was smo king!!
Now I got the perfect motor (on a spec sheet) and it runs absolutley Terrible! And it has the most wicked backfire when turned off after a long drive...
I had a timing light on it, and got it to 10 degrees advance on te crank pulley, and the cam gear is straight down on the first fire...
(It idles perfect and revs fast, but cuts out at about 5600.)
Going down the road, it hesitates at 2000-2450 then shoots like a rocket to 4000... The problem with that is, I need to go faster than 55 on the freeway, and 3rd has 6000 at 55, and 4th gear bogs... It pisses me off to the point of not wanting to drive it... I need some help, guys!!
02-28-2007, 02:16 PM
the big bang when you shut it off is from unused fuel in the exhaust. To me if your idle isn't high or erratic I still say it's in your timing. If your over advanced the motor will nose over on higher rpms. Also being a tooth off on the belt either way can cause your problems. If it were me I would set the belt up PER the manual, set the timing at 10 to 14 depending on your altitude. And go from there. You really need to get it back to a baseline so you aren't possibly chasing a bunch of problems. Also check your coil wire and fuel pressure, if it's low by the time you get up into 4th you may be running out.
02-28-2007, 02:22 PM
Oh and then try 1 thing at a time, if it doesn't help, put it back the way it was before trying the next thing. Or your going to be back to where you are now
02-28-2007, 05:54 PM
Has anyone suggested checking the keyway on the timing gear? I know to get my old motor to run right, I had to run the timing as far advanced as it could go. I found out why when it finally lost compression altogether. The keyway was completely wallowed out! Compoun that with the fact that the key was half-sheared off, and you had a timing gear that was off by about 15°! Also, the bolt was finger-tight. Easy way to tell...line up the timing mark on the crank pully with the 0° mark on the timing cover with the #1 cylinder up and the rotor pointing at the #1 plug tower, just like you're setting the valves. The flywheel "T" mark should be under the pointer in the bellhousing. If it's not, you either have a bad keyway or a broken crank. This will DEFINATELY cause those problems! I noticed that if I retarded my timing at all with the old motor, it wouldn't rev all the way up.
02-28-2007, 10:12 PM
Well, after a few minutes and a 17mm, it runs pretty good!
Turns out the cam gear was too retarded by a tooth(see below). So it runs pretty good now, but the timing is off on a timing light by like 20 degrees advance, but where it is, it is fine...
Could be the crappy timing light I had to use...
I will get it tuned right before I go to the dunes with it.
Stated above^, it was a tooth retarded...
Why it was retarded is because when we had it that advance, the starter had to work really hard to turn theengine over... But I guess it's right, now!
Thanks for everyones help! I jus have to get ahold of zukking now.
03-02-2007, 11:36 AM
Did you check the keyway?
03-02-2007, 07:00 PM
Did you check the keyway?
Both keyways were fine, looking like new! I love a Tow-behind motor! haha...
It's a shot in the dark, but try checking out your carberetor to intake gasket. They are less than $2, and it doesn't take long to check. Good luck.:suzuki:
03-16-2007, 03:01 PM
Are your secondaries on the carb opening???
03-17-2007, 12:34 AM
also check vacume lines....they are cheap and can hurt stock carbs....just a thought
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