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View Full Version : engine rebuild started


fuctzookis.a.
02-07-2007, 10:20 AM
well started my teardown on the newly acquired engines from mike in springs texas area. dirty dirty dirty, but hey its an engine.for the most part all is going well. but that dam pulley bolt is being a real #$%^&! ill be picking up a impact friday along with an engine stand. do you engine gooroo's have any suggestions or input for a beginner? i already have put all nuts and bolts taken off into plastic sandwich bags and labelled their locations. as far as cleaning the block and parts goes wat works the best? id like to just take all the parts, late at night and power wash them at the carwash, but i want to get all the big grease and gunk off prior to that. anything i should be looking for ? cracks, and so on? ive got allittle rust/ crap on the piston walls of 3 and 4 (i think those are the right ones) so ill be getting the block "honed"????? thanks guys anyand all input is greatly appreciated..

mkyhmltn
02-07-2007, 11:39 AM
What I would do is take it down to your local machine shop and have them hot tank it when they do your bore. Will make it look like new.

fuctzookis.a.
02-07-2007, 12:32 PM
thanks man. ill have them do that if they do - do it...

captain insano
02-07-2007, 02:10 PM
I painted mine after the rebuild and ran into probs w/ the distributor not getting proper ground to the block via the distributor bracket. Got my rebuild kit from Hawk and had good luck doing biz w/ them.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q200/_e_rock_/zuk_1324_03.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q200/_e_rock_/zuk_1324_02.jpg

the area i'm talking about not getting grounded is between the 2 pieces of blue tape on the dist.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q200/_e_rock_/zuk_1324_01.jpg

Good Luck!!!

billsbar
02-07-2007, 06:41 PM
also when you get it back from the machine shop do not assume it's clean. There can be crap from the boring in oil passages ect.... Clean it again I use lacquer thinner and then blow out everything with an air hose. Remember it only takes a few fragments of metal floating through the oil to make a lasting impression on those new bearings.

hillbilly
02-07-2007, 06:46 PM
also when you get it back from the machine shop do not assume it's clean. There can be crap from the boring in oil passages ect.... Clean it again I use lacquer thinner and then blow out everything with an air hose. Remember it only takes a few fragments of metal floating through the oil to make a lasting impression on those new bearings.
:agree:

mkyhmltn
02-07-2007, 09:48 PM
I got my kit from Johns Foreign Engines. Check them out at www.g13b.com

fuctzookis.a.
02-07-2007, 10:42 PM
thanks mkyhmltn. i was going to decide soon on whom id go with soon,
right now i know:
the water pump is shot,
pistons are .20, they look fine.
two piston walls are slightly rusty (colored and slight buildup)
oil pump i want to replace, all seals, gaskets and so on.... being a first time for me i want to do it right. no shortcuts.

Gearhead61
02-07-2007, 11:13 PM
Take lots of pictures!

zukinoobi
02-08-2007, 01:52 AM
I'd want to know some dimensions before I ordered any parts.

For example:

Bore diameter taken at at least three places per cylinder (more is better) to check for taper and out of round. This can also be something your machine shop does for you and then they recommend the next step - hone, or bore and hone, etc.

Crank journal dimensions to check for wear and runout. Another thing your machnine shop can do for you and then they recommend the next step - polish, turn, etc.

Take lots of pics and write down everything - you've already got a good start by bagging parts. Consider using boxes with holes punched in tops to place things like head bolts and journal bolts in correct order and sequence.

Mark bearing caps for location and put them back where they came from.

Read everything you can get your hands on and don't be hesitant about asking questions. Always ask someone who knows - not me!

Carefully chase the threads in every hole when you get your block back - nasty stuff can be hiding inside and you won't know it until you've already got a bolt seized.

You mentioned the crank bolt - I had a hard time getting mine broke loose. Finally had to use a chain wrench to hold the pulley, and a longa$$ed cheater bar to get the bolt loose. The blue stuff is masking tape to protect the pulley.

http://www.zukikrawlers.com/albums/album30/CrankBolt01.sized.jpg

Good luck and keep us in the loop.

:happy

fuctzookis.a.
02-08-2007, 10:09 AM
thankss.. got the bolt free using a cheater pipe, bed frame(angle iron) and i heated up the bolt. along with soaking it in PB blast all night. tonight im going to tear out the pistons and whatnots inside. and i will keep a strict placement of all parts and locations. gonna grab an engine stand fri after work.... so this weekend i will have it all broke down. i just want to make sure i get the right rebuild kit for this engine and that it is as complete as possible! thats my big worry.... no skimping here. all new seals, gaskets and whatnots......

zukinoobi
02-08-2007, 10:19 AM
Great! That bolt was a biatch for me to get out.

I've looked at a few sources for rebuild kits - I almost choked! I know that compared to American big iron kits Zuks are not all that high, but still...

I missed a deal on ebay not long ago - new pistons, wrist pins, and rings - factory packaging... I dozed off and missed the end of the auction - the set went for $51.00! :shocked!:

smokin

zukinoobi
01-08-2008, 07:42 PM
So what's going on with this engine rebuild? http://www.zukikrawlers.com/albums/album63/14_G_001.gif


popcornn

tommbstone
01-21-2008, 12:55 AM
Think it was forgotten.

duckhuntersfather
01-21-2008, 03:31 AM
Well, the son and I are just about ready to do a total rebuild on his 1.6L we have on the stand. We'll take photo's and have a write up on it as we go.:happy

zukinoobi
01-21-2008, 11:23 AM
Well, the son and I are just about ready to do a total rebuild on his 1.6L we have on the stand. We'll take photo's and have a write up on it as we go.:happy

Please do! I don't think we can have too much info on any rebuild/refresh project, no matter what the component - engine, transmission, or whatever.

I personally think it would be a good idea to start a new thread for your build though. It would make it much easier for Itsmejoe to catalog it in the new index.

Looking back on what's already been done it seems we have (myself is part of we) a tendency to string different subjects and projects together in the same thread. That's part of being laid-back I know, but it doesn't help in the search department. Seems like things become more lost than found.

Just my opinion... I could be wrong...popcornn

billsbar
01-21-2008, 12:51 PM
Doing the same here, the 1.6 is at the machine shop I should be getting it back soon. My new Hawk cam should be here this week. I've already collected a new Thorley header, engine adaptor kit and the power steering adaptor kit. When we snatched the 1.6 out of the kick I grabbed all the power steering including the gear. It should be a lot more fun to drive real soon.

duckhuntersfather
01-21-2008, 07:09 PM
Please do! I don't think we can have too much info on any rebuild/refresh project, no matter what the component - engine, transmission, or whatever.

I personally think it would be a good idea to start a new thread for your build though. It would make it much easier for Itsmejoe to catalog it in the new index.



So let it be written, so let it be done. :happy

zukinoobi
01-21-2008, 11:22 PM
Or not. Just thinking out loud... :happy