Oil from Crankshaft Pulley??

[BOFF]

Well, get one thing fixed, and something else breaks or is wrong. Getting frustrated and extremely low on funds.

Noticed a small puddle on the dirt, and found what appears to be black oil coming from around the crankshaft pulley, as oil has been slung in all directions on the front of the engine. I see in the Chilton manual there is a seal in the timing cover, but don't understand why oil would be in the timing cover . Is there another seal around the crankshaft that is bad. Would that be a front main seal?

Oil is leaking from around the bottom of the crankshaft pulley, and timing cover, and seeping down the front of the oil pan. Checked the dipstick, and oil level is almost 1/2 down on the stick.

88 Samurai, carburetor, 1.3

Any ideas?

[Billjohn]

Yup, that is the front main seal or the oil pump leaking (it is that lower section of the block behind the cover).

[BOFF]

Yup, that is the front main seal or the oil pump leaking (it is that lower section of the block behind the cover).
I'm not positive, I'll have to look again in the morning. What I do know is there is oil on the fan belt, bottom radiator hose on left side (looking at front of Zuk), underside of hood, crankshaft pulley, etc.

From what I remember, it seems like there was oil coming from behind the crankshaft pulley.

[billsbar]

Yup, that is the front main seal or the oil pump leaking (it is that lower section of the block behind the cover).


Yup

[WVhillbilly]

Front seal

[zukinoobi]

Don't be surprised if, when you pull the front dust cover, you find the cam seal leaking also. You should be prepared to replace the cam seal, crank seal, front dust cover seal, rear dust cover seal, fan belt and timing belt.

Make sure the front dust cover hasn't been in contact with the crank pulley. You may need to replace it also if the pulley has chewed a hole in it.

While I had mine apart I took the opportunity to replace both the valve cover gasket and the oil pan gasket. I needed to scrape all the old oil/dirt from them anyway. I got rid of every leak!

While you're futzing around with all that, check the back of the head and top of bell housing for oil. If there's any then now would be a good time to replace both the distributor shaft and distributor housing O rings.

I think it is worth the little extra effort to pull the radiator. I gives you an acre more room to work in.

While you're in there you might want to consider replacing any soft hoses - it'll be easier now than later.

Here's mine with the radiator out and a long cheater pipe on the ratchet - that nut was on tight!

http://www.zukikrawlers.com/albums/album30/CrankBolt01.sized.jpg

Pulling cam seal

http://www.zukikrawlers.com/albums/album30/SealPuller.sized.jpg

Pulling crank seal. Notice massive buildup of oil - this puppy has been slingin oil for a looong time!

http://www.zukikrawlers.com/albums/album30/PullCnkSeal.sized.jpg

This is what an original rear dust cover gasket looks like in an 88.5. Due to be replaced!

http://www.zukikrawlers.com/albums/album30/RrTimeGask.sized.jpg

Getting the crank nut loose so I could get the crank seal out was the biggest problem I had, mainly because I didn't have the proper tool. I had to go to my friendly HF Chinese Tool Depot and get a chain wrench to hold the gear while I broke loose the nut. The blue stuff is masking tape to protect the gear teeth. Hopefully yours will be easier.

http://www.zukikrawlers.com/albums/album30/CrankDtl.sized.jpg

It's all pretty easy, just irritating and messy! I also pulled the alternator and degreased it, the valve cover, the oil pan and most of the front 10% of the zuk. What a mess! :funny:


smokin

[BOFF]

I just got through replacing the distubuter O ring, putting in a new water pump, and timing belt, and fan belt!!! Aughhhh!!!!

So I don't have to pull the motor to put in a Main oil seal??

[BOFF]

Someone on another site recommended putting a breaker bar on the crank bolt, turning by hand until bar was on the pass. side frame, and then cranking engine slightly to undo the nut. Don't know about that one.

Any other help or instructions are welcome. PLEASE!!! popcornn

[WVhillbilly]

Someone on another site recommended putting a breaker bar on the crank bolt, turning by hand until bar was on the pass. side frame, and then cranking engine slightly to undo the nut. Don't know about that one.

Any other help or instructions are welcome. PLEASE!!! popcornn

If the engine turns the right way for that maybe, but I dunno sounds like an easy way to break something screwey

[BOFF]

Sorry zukinoobi,

In my haste I forgot to thank you for posting the pics. That REALLY helps me out alot!!!

THANK YOU!!!!
toast

[SimZuk1]

You can also use a high powered impact gun to break the crank bolt loose. Other wise you will have to do it the hard way.

I agree with Zookinoobi, change both seals, timing belt and fan belt while you got it apart.

also be sure to line up timing marks with #1 piston on compression stroke top dead center,when you put it all back together.

[BOFF]

You can also use a high powered impact gun to break the crank bolt loose. Other wise you will have to do it the hard way.
I agree with Zookinoobi, change both seals, timing belt and fan belt while you got it apart.
also be sure to line up timing marks with #1 piston on compression stroke top dead center, when you put it all back together.

I guess it would be ill advised to use the new timing belt and fan belt on it seeing how they now have oil on them. Money down the drain. banghead

[SimZuk1]

I just got through replacing the distubuter O ring, putting in a new water pump, and timing belt, and fan belt!!! Aughhhh!!!!

So I don't have to pull the motor to put in a Main oil seal??

No you dont have to pull the motor, just the radiator. Its not as hard as you think. I have had to do it twice now. Once on my old 1.3 and also on my 1.6

[BOFF]

Before I order the seals, how would I be sure it's not the oil pump?

I don't have the Zebra here, it's 30 miles away at the shop. Fixing to head that way.

[SimZuk1]

Before I order the seals, how would I be sure it's not the oil pump?

I don't have the Zebra here, it's 30 miles away at the shop. Fixing to head that way.


Look at the patten of oil on the front of engine, also that seal goes into the front of the oil pump. You should be able to get those seals at autozone. they are both the same size, may have different pn#. one has an extra gasket and the other just has the seal. should be about $7.00 or so.

you shouldnt need the extra gaskets that come with the crank seal, so just get two cam seal, they are the same size.

[SimZuk1]

also, the reason i dont think its your oil pump is because when the crank seal goes bad, it will piss oil everywhere.

My experience.

[SimZuk1]

I guess it would be ill advised to use the new timing belt and fan belt on it seeing how they now have oil on them. Money down the drain. banghead


You should be able to wipe those belt down with some mild degreaser. I think they will be okay, especially if they re still new.

thats what I did to mine and they work just fine.

[zukinoobi]

Sorry zukinoobi, In my haste I forgot to thank you for posting the pics. That REALLY helps me out alot!!!

THANK YOU!!!!
toast

You are welcome. I am happy I could help. Doesn't happen all that often... :dance:

[zukinoobi]

I just got through replacing the distubuter O ring, putting in a new water pump, and timing belt, and fan belt!!! Aughhhh!!!!

So I don't have to pull the motor to put in a Main oil seal??

Nope. You don't need to pull the engine to replace the front main seal.

This is just my opinion, so don't take anything I say personally - but considering how much trouble it is to break everything down to replace that cog belt, if it was mine I'd go ahead and put a new, dry one in there... you might use Dawn or such on the oily one and stick it in your possibles box - cause it's possible you might break one on the trail one day.

The main reason I personally would replace the belts is eventual degradation due to exposure to oil. I know, I know - I've got two engines that have many, many miles on them and oil was all over the belts when I replaced them. Maybe they might have gone another 100K if I'd kept pouring oil in. Just my opinion - I've been wrong more times than GW Bush.

I'm not trying to be disagreeable here guys (My wife says I don't have to try!), but the two front seals are different part numbers (at least according to NAPA) - anyone know why? I just assumed there was a reason or the factory wouldn't have stocked two separate numbers.

Just ignore my ramblings. I think I'm in withdrawal - ZERO withdrawal!:funny:

[BOFF]

but the two front seals are different part numbers (at least according to NAPA) - anyone know why? I just assumed there was a reason or the factory wouldn't have stocked two separate numbers.



they are both the same size, may have different pn#. one has an extra gasket and the other just has the seal. should be about $7.00 or so. you shouldnt need the extra gaskets that come with the crank seal, so just get two cam seal, they are the same size.

This is probably your answer ^^^^^

[BOFF]

Anybody got a part number or know where the front and rear dust cover seal may be purchased?

[SimZuk1]

Anybody got a part number or know where the front and rear dust cover seal may be purchased?

Was able to get them at the auto parts store. (Auto Zone) they just looked up the part number on their computer.

[zukinoobi]

Anybody got a part number or know where the front and rear dust cover seal may be purchased?

The only part I couldn't get from Advance was the front dust cover. My pulley had chewed a large hole through it - I got one from a Suzuki dealership. The Suzi parts dept. have everything, too.

You can probably reuse your front seal - it's just a long felt/foam strip and I don't think a little oil on it will matter much.

:happy

[SimZuk1]

I found these on the AutoZone website. They are the P/Ns for the front cam seal. Not able to find front crankshaft seal, but they are both interchangable.

FELPRO
Cam front seal set TCS45852 $5.99

TIMKEN 710310 $5.99