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Ruttdigger
01-31-2006, 04:11 PM
I am going to get rid of the key all together. Anyone got a good write up on installing a push button starter. I know you need an acc switch 30a at least so the power can be on but what kind of button and what kind of realay and wires are needed. Remember I am getting rid of ALL my unecessary wires. I am hoping to also help the clicky at the same time.

TX_ZUKI
01-31-2006, 04:15 PM
This would look cool. :mrgreen:

http://www.staples.com/sbd/cre/marketing/easybutton/images/lg-easybutton.gif

Ruttdigger
01-31-2006, 04:18 PM
yeah but I would hate for the engine to start spurting toner.

Mikey
01-31-2006, 04:33 PM
30amp?? all you gotta do is trigger the solenoid on the starter - should be way less than 30amps.


http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f14/MaineZuke/foglite.jpg


http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/500-001.pdf

Ruttdigger
01-31-2006, 04:36 PM
Well that would work for the acc switch to give the system juice but what about the button... that indicator would only be a light in that instance to say if it is on or not... I would think the starter "button" needs to be run to the solenoid itself. I may be missing something though. that jsut seems too easy.

RIVERZUK
01-31-2006, 04:46 PM
I put an on-off-momentary switch in mine & used the existing wires. Simple. The hardest part was getting the old ingnition switch out

Ruttdigger
01-31-2006, 04:48 PM
so the actual switch has a off, on, and like all the way up is a momentary... very good idea. keeps the buttons down to a minium... got a picture? I am getting rid of the dash and going to have it mounted to the upper roll bar.

Mikey
01-31-2006, 05:40 PM
simplified it.
the switch only has to be a momentary button.

Sally
01-31-2006, 05:48 PM
Don't see the clutch safety switch in the diagram:confused:

Mikey
01-31-2006, 06:02 PM
that's a feature :) (not having it)

Itsmejoe231
01-31-2006, 06:18 PM
The wire that goes to the starter is the black with yellow tracer. That is the wire you would tie into with the relay. If you already have the clicky start fix, you got the relay. Now all you need is the button.

Here is a nice pannel and button: Button pannel (http://www.autotoys.com/x/catalog/IGNITED_DIN_SWITCH_PANELS_p_4419.html) and pretty cheap

Zee
01-31-2006, 07:12 PM
check this site out:
http://www.12voltguy.com
Z

TRASHCAN
01-31-2006, 07:51 PM
yall are missing the point I think. correct me if im wrong but you want to GET RID of all the wires you dont need and in turn fix your clicky at the same time right? not add wires and a mess and headach.

if you want to do this simply start fresh!! yank em all out!!!

take a look:
this is my electrical box, everything I use runs into this box....the headlights, parking lights, blinkers, backup lights, starter, ingition/coil,so on and so on.....
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/mrtrashcan/9-26-2005-03.jpg

this is the inside of my electrical box, I used a keyed starter switch from auto zone, its for a lawn mower but it works great AND it cuts down on the ammount of switches needed.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/mrtrashcan/9-26-2005-02.jpg

something to remember is, when you wire the alt make sure its connected inline INFRONT of your ignition switch, if not your eng wownt die when you flip the switch off.

Mike

ill post more later, if you have any Q's lemme know

Itsmejoe231
01-31-2006, 07:58 PM
yall are missing the point I think. correct me if im wrong but you want to GET RID

The way I took it was he was going to get rid of the "key" and wanted to install a push start button.

TRASHCAN
01-31-2006, 08:02 PM
ohh well maybe i was wrong im sorry bout that, even if so. I think it may be easier to install a kill switch that to wire everything to one 3 way switch. I had a fit trying to find what I wanted in the switches, I had to change my plan at least 3 times before I finnished.

TX_ZUKI
01-31-2006, 08:31 PM
The way I took it was he was going to get rid of the "key" and wanted to install a push start button.
x 2 2finger

TRASHCAN
01-31-2006, 08:56 PM
ok ok, Im sorry I was wrong!!

TRASHCAN
01-31-2006, 08:57 PM
I have found that if you ground the hell outta everything and use a big enough switch and large enough ga wire you wownt have the clicky prob

Itsmejoe231
01-31-2006, 09:21 PM
30amp?? all you gotta do is trigger the solenoid on the starter - should be way less than 30amps.


http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f14/MaineZuke/foglite.jpg


http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/500-001.pdf

The way this diagram is wired, there is no use for a relay if you are using the 12v directly from the battery through the switch. It will work but you are just adding 2 switches. A relay is used to turn something on using a positve or negative signal but using the battery as the source to feed (in this case) the starter solinoid.

For an example: The starter clicky fix is a relay that uses the signal from the egnition to close a magnetic field in the relay and takes 12v directly from the battery and puts it on the starter solinoid. The voltage from the ignition is not enough to engage the starter and that is why you get the click, click.

Itsmejoe231
01-31-2006, 09:24 PM
I have found that if you ground the hell outta everything and use a big enough switch and large enough ga wire you wownt have the clicky prob

This is true. With the bigger wire you will not have the voltage drop.

wolfgang
01-31-2006, 09:31 PM
I am goning to do that to mine, I got a kill switch from autozone, and a boat starter switch from the local marina here (it's waterproof!). There's a writeup on how to do this over at zuwharrie (http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,5655.0/all.html) that's not too bad

Ruttdigger
02-01-2006, 08:36 AM
Sorry I need to clairify what I am actually doing...

I am getting rid of every single stock wire that is in the zuki and starting over.

Right now everything is just hanging and finding out where a problem is... is a pain in the arse.

Now for this situation I want to get rid of all the starter parts inside the rig and start fresh with just a push button. The only thing I want to make sure is that I have an ACC switch to be able to run lights or cb when the engine isnt on.

I will be running lights and the like off switches too. All gagues are mechanical (oil, temp, ect.)

I want this to be the most simple wiring harness with no frills. If I want to do more later I can but for now I want the rig to just run and everything be nice and clean and neat.

Mikey
02-01-2006, 04:37 PM
The way this diagram is wired, there is no use for a relay if you are using the 12v directly from the battery through the switch. It will work but you are just adding 2 switches. A relay is used to turn something on using a positve or negative signal but using the battery as the source to feed (in this case) the starter solinoid.

For an example: The starter clicky fix is a relay that uses the signal from the egnition to close a magnetic field in the relay and takes 12v directly from the battery and puts it on the starter solinoid. The voltage from the ignition is not enough to engage the starter and that is why you get the click, click.

what I posted will work fine. A small push button triggers the relay - sending 12v directly from the battery to the starter solenoid. The push button can be some tiny micro switch with say 24guage wire, and it'll still work fine because of the relay.

Itsmejoe231
02-01-2006, 05:12 PM
what I posted will work fine. A small push button triggers the relay - sending 12v directly from the battery to the starter solenoid. The push button can be some tiny micro switch with say 24guage wire, and it'll still work fine because of the relay.

You are right about the smaller wire and the switch. I didnt think of that. toast

Itsmejoe231
02-02-2006, 06:11 PM
Here is a simple wiring diagram of what you want. If you want to add more electronics let me know. If you want to use you existing head light switch let me know as well. If you want greater detail let me know. This will be all you need to have a basic running rig. If you have an electric fuel pump tie it in with the coil wire with another relay.

http://www.zukikrawlers.com/albums/Itsmejoe231/simpleWiringDiagram.sized.jpg

Ruttdigger
02-02-2006, 06:21 PM
thanks that should help alot... On the relays do you remember what the numbers are supposed to be for.

Itsmejoe231
02-02-2006, 06:31 PM
The way it is you will either have to wire up the high beam or the low beam lights unless you use a 3 way switch or the existing light switch.

http://www.ado13.com/techs/relaywire.jpg

TRASHCAN
02-02-2006, 09:01 PM
I didnt use any relays in mine? do you think thats why my blinkers run 90 to nuthin when I turn them on? I always thought it was because the LED's didnt offer enought resistance for the flasher switch I bought.
My sami stays in the driveway so I always leave it in gear, all I need is for some kid to push a button and lurch my truck into my house!! thats why I used a key. I was just going to put a marine batt disconnect inline but when I saw that I could run all the power thru that keyed switch I fell in love with the idea. and everything is up outta watters way, and even if a switch pops the 6 gain switch panel Im useing is a marine panel (waterproof) and it has breakers not fuses. its hard to describe without a pic (not pulling it back out) but it has 4 posts ont he back... one only gets power when the key is turned all the way, one when its just turned back (acc) and one when its turned to on (on). I have only the starter on a direct line to the center post, then all my acc (radio and cb) and then one big wire going from the on post to my switch panel and another wire going from my on post to my ignition coil. (DONE)!! thats running and driving, if you want anything eles wire it into your switch panel witch gets power when the key (or switch) is turned to on. I doubt this helps any when you have people who can draw an actual wiring diagram, but atleast let me feel good for a little while.

Mike

Itsmejoe231
02-02-2006, 09:16 PM
I didnt use any relays in mine? do you think thats why my blinkers run 90 to nuthin when I turn them on? I always thought it was because the LED's didnt offer enought resistance for the flasher switch I bought.


A relay will not help your blinkers from going 90 to nothin. You are right about the resistance the LED's have is not enought for the flasher switch. You can buy resisters to help that or I think there is already something that they make to prevent that from happening but I will bet resistors from Radio shack will be cheaper.

I am sure you have a nice/clean set up. The nice thing about electricity is there are many different ways to wire the same thing and get the same results and it depends on your own preferance.

Ruttdigger
02-02-2006, 11:08 PM
I never keep the battery in the rig... just for that reason.

I am going to take some pics I promise and get some opinions then.

Ruttdigger
04-02-2006, 11:00 AM
For some unknown reason I just cant figure this crap out.

I have juice to the acc switch and to the push button (when pressed) but after that nada. I have it wired just like yall put up but nothing... Remember it was working when I took it all apart.

Working on the pics. Anyone available to come over to Carrollton and Help me figure it out. I feel retarded.

Itsmejoe231
04-02-2006, 11:42 AM
When you push the start button does the black with yellow tracer wire from the starter have juice?

Ruttdigger
04-02-2006, 12:00 PM
Ok this is what I have so far...

Battery + to fuse block.


Aircraft toggle 2 position switch. One side to + on Coil one to the fuse block.
(this one both sides are always hot but when the switch is thrown there is a jump in volts.)


Push button switch. one side to the fuse block. the other to a relay. This one the power is only when the button is pushed

everything is grounded and I used your model joe but I cant figure out why I am getting nada.

I am so frustrated and I am sure it is something retarded.

Ruttdigger
04-02-2006, 12:01 PM
by the way... there is NO zuki wires left in there. I have cut and placed all the wires myself.

I have red, green, black, and white for simplicity.

There is no key or anything stock. infact the steering wheel is just the shaft and the dash is gone. No gagues no nothing... just empty.

Ruttdigger
04-02-2006, 12:04 PM
this is what is left.

http://www.zukikrawlers.com/albums/Ruttdigger/dcp_1442.sized.jpg

http://www.zukikrawlers.com/albums/Ruttdigger/dcp_1444.sized.jpg

Itsmejoe231
04-02-2006, 12:29 PM
[quote=Ruttdigger]Ok this is what I have so far...

Battery + to fuse block. [/qoute]


Aircraft toggle 2 position switch.

Are the 2 positions ON and OFF?

One side to + on Coil (is the other side of the coil grounded?) one to the fuse block.

This is correct if it is just an ON/OFF switch.

(this one both sides are always hot but when the switch is thrown there is a jump in volts.)

This is where it throws me off. The coil wire should not be hot until the switch is ON. I might be confused with your terminology "jump in volts" but if you mean the volts get higher when the switch is on and both sides of the switch is hot even when off you could be busting a fuse.


Push button switch. one side to the fuse block. the other to a relay.

This is correct so far as long as the other side of the relay is going to the starter.

This one the power is only when the button is pushed

Double check the wiring to the relay. When you push the button you should hear the relay switch click.

The oem wire is black with a yellow tracer that goes to the starter. (Not sure if you replaced it with new) It should get power when you push the button. All this wire does is close the contact on the starter, you have to have the wire from the positive side of the battery connected to the starter and the motor has to be grounded as well.

everything is grounded and I used your model joe but I cant figure out why I am getting nada.

It is real hard to trouble shoot electricity over the internet but I hope this helps. If you want you can PM me your phone # and I can hopefully walk you through your wiring harness.

I am so frustrated and I am sure it is something retarded.

Check you grounds with the test light. Ground your test light to your ground and then touch a known positive. This will ensure your grounds are good. You will get it working and then gain confidence. :mrgreen:

Ruttdigger
04-03-2006, 09:05 AM
Aircraft toggle 2 position switch.

Are the 2 positions ON and OFF? YES

One side to + on Coil (is the other side of the coil grounded? YES) one to the fuse block.

This is correct if it is just an ON/OFF switch.

(this one both sides are always hot but when the switch is thrown there is a jump in volts.)

This is where it throws me off. The coil wire should not be hot until the switch is ON. I might be confused with your terminology "jump in volts" but if you mean the volts get higher when the switch is on and both sides of the switch is hot even when off you could be busting a fuse.

IT FOR SURE HAS POWER TO IT AT ALL TIMES BUT WHEN i FLIP THE SWITCH IT MAKES THE NEEDLE JUMP TOO.

Push button switch. one side to the fuse block. the other to a relay.

This is correct so far as long as the other side of the relay is going to the starter.

This one the power is only when the button is pushed

Double check the wiring to the relay. When you push the button you should hear the relay switch click. IT DOESNT CLICK BUT TESTING IT WITH A MULTI METER IT DOES TRIP IT.

The oem wire is black with a yellow tracer that goes to the starter. (Not sure if you replaced it with new) It should get power when you push the button. All this wire does is close the contact on the starter, you have to have the wire from the positive side of the battery connected to the starter and the motor has to be grounded as well.

everything is grounded and I used your model joe but I cant figure out why I am getting nada.

It is real hard to trouble shoot electricity over the internet but I hope this helps. If you want you can PM me your phone # and I can hopefully walk you through your wiring harness.

I am so frustrated and I am sure it is something retarded.

Check you grounds with the test light. Ground your test light to your ground and then touch a known positive. This will ensure your grounds are good. You will get it working and then gain confidence.

i WILL SEND YOU MY NUMBER. THANKS JOE.

ian
04-05-2006, 04:34 AM
yea i just ran a hot wier from my battry to the positev side of the coil then hooked up a starter gun from the battry to the starter no more clickey starter then ran the gun inside no switches just pull the trigger and go

Ruttdigger
04-21-2006, 01:45 PM
Well we figured out what the problem is with the pushbutton not working... bad ground.


Anyway yesterday MYK and I got some aluminum plate and fabbed up a switch plate and mounts for the fuse block. We are going to still have to make a plate for the gagues and finish the wiring under the hood. But then it is off to the rear and getting the fuel cell in and then DONE AND READY TO PLAY.

Itsmejoe231
04-21-2006, 10:24 PM
Man, I am glad you got that figured out. toast

TX_ZUKI
04-21-2006, 10:25 PM
Good to hear Gary! Get r Done so we can go wheeling! rockonn

Ruttdigger
04-24-2006, 08:59 AM
yeah I feel stupid really. Grounded it to the engine but didnt ground the engine itself... poly bushings for motor mounts so no go.

xanthias
04-24-2006, 11:17 AM
I ran a ground strap from the block to a motor mount bolt from a scrap battery cable to go from engine to frame. For engine to body, make sure your ground strap from the distributor to the body is intact and in good shape.

Ruttdigger
04-24-2006, 12:43 PM
Will do thanks for the info.