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trackershorty
01-30-2006, 08:35 PM
Between a few of my friends we have built 4 zuks this way. I see yu guys spending big money on lifts. We put two on 31's and 2 on 33's. All were lifted the same way. We went to TSC (Tractor Supply Co.) and bought trailer perches and U bolt. They worked great, Just have to be careful and save the front passenger side U bolts. Just heat them up and the nuts usually come right off, or you can reuse all the u bolt if you get them off. Just switch the u bolt plate from side to side and you can even reuse the shocks. One of the sammy's that had 33's, we used longer shackles, an the other was cut alot.I think we had $35 in each lift. Can't beat it for a woods ride, well they even drove one of them on the road. You still need to make steering arms and brake line extentions, we even made those. The last zuk we got for free and when it was done we had less than $300 in her.

Just thought i'd run this by you guys if anyone was interested.Not saying its safe not saying its unsafe, but it works and its really cheap.

madzukr
01-30-2006, 08:48 PM
that is a common way do do spoa lifts here.
got parts to one tommarrow.
parts list
4 spring pads=$11.00
F/R break lines from a metro=$20.00
and a used tie rod for z-link=$20.00 cut the eye off the drag link
the rest is done with all the stock parts,including the u-bolts

purevil71
01-30-2006, 08:58 PM
We hve a buddy that owns a speed shop here in town make out spring plates and perches, and we can still do a lift for under $40

zukking01
01-31-2006, 09:05 AM
Making a lift is easy. Just dont buy one from those expensive people. I made one from perches $20 and metro lines $4 and spacers from RR :mad: for $75 and my own z link $2 Worked greak. Just over hundred ($101) for a complete lift kit. jamminzz jamminzz

Billjohn
01-31-2006, 09:23 AM
One way to make the 'cheap lift' a bit safer is to use some 2" wide x 1/4" thick strap steel to tie the new perches to the original perches. This will keep you from crushing the stock tubes while doing an intense trail...

simplesam
01-31-2006, 12:05 PM
Here's a cheap suggestion for a body lift. I bought some $10.00 skateboards from walmart and used the wheels for body mount spacers. After all, the're made of urathane and are the right size for a 1 1/2 inch lift. Plus I gave the boards to my son afterwards, it was a win,win situation.

Ruttdigger
01-31-2006, 01:41 PM
1x1 square tube 1/4" wall in 1" squares holes drilled body mount done. cost 4 bucks in steel and 10 bucks for longer bolts.

madzukr
02-01-2006, 12:10 AM
Making a lift is easy. Just dont buy one from those expensive people. I made one from perches $20 and metro lines $4 and spacers from RR :mad: for $75 and my own z link $2 Worked greak. Just over hundred ($101) for a complete lift kit. jamminzz jamminzz


you should'nt need spacers for a basic spring over.

madzukr
02-01-2006, 12:12 AM
Here's a cheap suggestion for a body lift. I bought some $10.00 skateboards from walmart and used the wheels for body mount spacers. After all, the're made of urathane and are the right size for a 1 1/2 inch lift. Plus I gave the boards to my son afterwards, it was a win,win situation.

the flat strap is a must.crushed and peeled tubes like a sardeine cans.the last one on the first trip.:(

purevil71
02-01-2006, 01:16 AM
those honeycomb rollers for boat trailers make nice body lift blocks as well.
I think they are 4" long and you just cut them to size, and they already have a bolt hole through the middle. Plus there only a few dollers each and can be found at any marine supply center.
Marine RTV makes a nice glue to help hold them in place as well as the bolts. We glued one in with the stuff and didn't get it positioned properly and had to beat on it pretty hard with a hammer to get it back off.

NitroMax
02-01-2006, 08:20 AM
My cheapo Bodylift:

http://www.nitromax.nl/SAMBODYLIFT.HTM

http://www.nitromax.nl/SamBodyliftleft.jpg

trackershorty
02-04-2006, 03:44 PM
I'm glad to see all you do it your selfers out there. I hate to buy stuff.

purevil71
02-04-2006, 10:54 PM
OH, I love buying stuff, I just never have the money to do so!

Sally
02-04-2006, 11:06 PM
My cheapo Bodylift:

http://www.nitromax.nl/SAMBODYLIFT.HTM



? Did you lift your t case mounts also? So that your shifter won't hit the body now. I have also done a few of them body lifts the same as you have. And always had to cut out a lilttle at the top of the shifter hole on the tranny tunnel. How did you solve this problem?
thanks
DJ

NitroMax
02-05-2006, 07:14 AM
? Did you lift your t case mounts also? No, did not lift the T-case How did you solve this problem?
thanks
DJI had a friend push against the stick when it popped out :mrgreen: , now I've just cut a notch in the floorboard so it doesn't get pushed out anymore ;)

trackershorty
02-18-2006, 08:39 AM
that is a common way do do spoa lifts here.
got parts to one tommarrow.
parts list
4 spring pads=$11.00
F/R break lines from a metro=$20.00
and a used tie rod for z-link=$20.00 cut the eye off the drag link
the rest is done with all the stock parts,including the u-bolts


Hey madzukr, how much longer are the metro brake lines?

zukking01
02-18-2006, 08:52 AM
Not the best pic but you can tell the front is so long it actually weaves to the tire and then back under the body and into the caliper. When I had a spoa the lines had to be held away from tires with little springs with hooks. I will get better ones for you today. The reart is really long like a foot extra. You couple it to your original.

madzukr
02-18-2006, 11:45 PM
the metro lines are about 4-5 inches longer.
to keep them from rubbing the tires turn them a 1/4 turnso they kick away from them

madzukr
02-18-2006, 11:46 PM
Not the best pic but you can tell the front is so long it actually weaves to the tire and then back under the body and into the caliper. When I had a spoa the lines had to be held away from tires with little springs with hooks. I will get better ones for you today. The reart is really long like a foot extra. You couple it to your original.


just another connection to leak.

MacGuyver
02-20-2006, 08:25 PM
LOL,,, just use them whole for a 4" body lift

madzukr
02-21-2006, 09:54 AM
if your doing a body lift you don't need longer break lines,you'll need to extend your shifters, your stering shaft and maybe your fuel tube

Junkyard Zuk
10-01-2006, 11:46 PM
One way to make the 'cheap lift' a bit safer is to use some 2" wide x 1/4" thick strap steel to tie the new perches to the original perches. This will keep you from crushing the stock tubes while doing an intense trail...

I have always wondered what those pieces were for.
Thanks for the info

John
Fairfield Ca




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