View Full Version : 1.3 L Timing Question
08-14-2006, 05:21 PM
First and foremost, I want to thank ACKS FAQS for publishing a super spread on vacuum lines for the Samurai! Thank you, Sir, I needed that! I just installed a new carb and the plumbing was a biatch - until I found your how-to!
On to my current dilemma - I removed the distributor, front dust cover, timing gear, crank gear, etc in order to replace leaking seals.
I marked the location of the timing and crank gears and I swear I remember all of them lined up - crank mark at 12 o'clock, timing gear at 12 o'clock and rotor pointing to #1 cylinder. That's what I think I remember, anyway.
But putting everything back together I can't get both gears to hit 12 o,clock and have the rotor point to #1 - it always goes to #4. Edit by ZNBI - This is as it should be! I later found that the CAM gear mark is at 0600, the CRANK gear mark is at 1200, and the ROTOR should be pointing to #4 cylinder!
So, does anyone have link to a good (simple) writeup on timing the 1.3 l?
I'm not ready to crank it yet, but this timing thing has me worried - I can't be certain someone (son, grandkid, passerby, etc) didn't move something while the parts were out and exposed. AND, now I'm doubting my own memory of the events... just need some assurance I'm not 180 degrees out of phase.
Thanks for your help,:happy
08-16-2006, 08:21 AM
08-16-2006, 12:57 PM
MUCH OBLIGED! Soon's I get the radiator back on and filled I'll give it a shot!:dance:
By the way, that site's no slouch! And what I don't know would fill a tanker - and what I do know I'm not so sure about! smokin
do a search for timing at the FAQ for some useful timing info.
08-17-2006, 10:04 AM
Well, it started - timing appears to be off a couple teeth on the distributor because there isn't enough adjustment to bring the timing mark on the crank pulley all the way to 10 BTDC.
Progress! Except... now it has the clicky start :-( and I haven't been able to crank it again to check the new dis. setting.
I ordered a CS kit so I suppose there's not much more I can do with the engine until it comes in. (except wear out the ignition switch trying to get lucky and have it start)
I hate waitin'..............
08-17-2006, 08:52 PM
You don't need to wait. Go down to AutoZone, NAPA, O'Reilly, etc. and spend $3.99 on a relay and fix it yourself using the instructions here:
08-18-2006, 03:01 AM
...taki! I could've had the sucker runnin' if I had seen your post earlier.
Like it is, I have to make a run to Poplar Bluff, MO tomorrow and won't get back to work on it again until Saturday. Did I mention that I hate waitin'?
Excellent links, both of them. Thank you - thank you - thank you!
I searched for "clicky start" using Google (see, Zee, I know Google is my friend - it just doesn't always deliver) but never ran across these two write-ups.
Much obliged - :happy
08-18-2006, 03:08 AM
I ... never mind. Thank God for edit buttons. I need one stapled to my ass so I can keep it out of trouble!
you can also turn the engine over by hand with a (I think) 17mm socket (maybe 19mm?) on the front of the crank. It's a little slower but more precise. ;)
08-26-2006, 02:48 PM
...and everything seems to be working.
I hustled on down to my friendly auto parts dealer and got s 12DC relay, a 30 amp breaker, some larger (10 ga) wire, and a handfull of various stake-on's.
I wired everything up the way it should be and... clicky, click, clicky!
Well... Horse feathers!
I retraced all wiring, checked continuity through all stake-on's. Everything checks good. What am I missing? Bad starter? Possible, but not likely. Hmmm...
Look up the wiring diagram for the starter circuit... Ah Ha! There is a clutch safety switch in the circuit!
After performing a fat-man contorsionist act I finally managed to reach the switch, mounted not above the clutch pedal but, get this - over the brake pedal!
I decided that I could probably adjust the safety switch to compensate for the obvious wear on the end of the plastic plunger - but if I did, I'd probably wind up with the little scudder failing again, but only when I least could afford it. Like way and gone back in the boondocks!
So I took the safety switch out and jumpered the remaining wires (shorted them together).
Here's a shot of the under hood connections (if I can remember how to post... hmmmm) And I still have to round up my heat shrink tubing and insulate the stake-on's.
http://www.zukikrawlers.com/gallery/zukinoobi/clickyfixWell, looks like I went to a lot of trouble for nada!
I keep getting a broken pic symbol. I suppose the file is too large... or maybe it's because it's a .GIF instead of a .JPEG - any way, whatever the problem is, the picture is to be found here:
Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions! ( xanthias (http://www.zukikrawlers.com/member.php?u=106) and ack (http://www.zukikrawlers.com/member.php?u=351) )
That's one of the things I really enjoy about this site - folks are both civil and helpful!:jumping:
08-26-2006, 03:43 PM
Ok. Figured it out. You must be logged in to the Photo Gallery to copy the link. (Who'd of thunk...)
04-17-2009, 10:31 AM
need help i have a problem , i cant keep the battery charged , it runs for about a day , then dead, i have replaced the alt, two times , and still the same thing, and if you turn head lights on it is good for about 30 minuts, then dies and wont start, can anyone help please , before i stick a piece of dyno in it and solve the whole prob, thanks scott
you will get more results by posting this as a new thread, keep you search to the simple and obvous first. Will it run with the positive cable disconnected? Yes, alt ok. If not, not charging, doesn't mean the alt is bad though. With the engine off, disconnect your positive cable, does it make a spark, if it does, you have something that is drawing amps. Find that, fix the problem, Could be a faulty ground cable. Is your belt properly tensioned? When you find it, you will give yourself rep points for being so smart.
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