PDA

View Full Version : SPOA QUESTIONs FER YA ALL...


fuctzookis.a.
05-08-2006, 12:34 PM
ive just about got all my parts( i think) to do my spoa lift.. question being, is it possible for 1 guy to do a lift by himself? and if so, how long should i set aside? i have the basic understanding and whatnot but still foggy on some aspects of the lift. ie: best steps to accomplish a hassle free and safe build with minimal errors and issues??? the castor and driveline vibration stuff worries me. this is a daily driver....are there any fellow zuki masters in or close to san antonio that could lend me a hand or guide me in doing it right? that would really rock! beer and food supplied by me!!! i am capable at doing this but i want to do it right and safe. so guys any help or suggestions would rock! im looking at going at it at the end of the month. i have basic tools and an arc welder.

parts have-
perches (farm supply store)
add a leafs(frnt-rear)-keepin the o.g. springs..... (southwest 4x4)
spacers (sky manufacturing)
new bushings (southwest 4x4)
z-bar (sky manufacturing)
rear shock relocation bar (sky manufacturing)
lower front / rear shock mounts (sky manufacturing)


need still:
new u-bolts (maybe)
extended brakelines
shocks fr/rear

does this sound like a complete spoa do-kit? i hope i have everything.... cant wait to do this build....
thanks for everything in advance...
bigok

purevil71
05-08-2006, 01:17 PM
I would get new U-bolts if it were me. Since your using add-a-leafs, plus you never know how hard those old U-bolts are going to be to get off.

You can use Geo Metro lines for your longer brake lines, unless you're going to just order new ones.

Also, what wheels/tires you going with?

Good luck with your lift and post some before and after pix when your done!

fuctzookis.a.
05-08-2006, 02:07 PM
i already have some 10.5/31's on the rear and 8.5/31's on the front.. did the virtual lift/ fender hammer smash deal already. but it still stuffs the tires in the well when it goes flexin.. ya, i was leaning towards new u bolts.... better be safe than sorry...

Sally
05-08-2006, 02:35 PM
Remember that not all the u bolts are the same size when you order.
Bump stop extensions on your list?

fuctzookis.a.
05-08-2006, 02:37 PM
i totally forgot those... will be adding them on pronto.. the u-bolt issue will be tended to. if i remember from prior posts one side of the axle is bigger than the other... what size u-bolts are recommended for this application?

Sally
05-08-2006, 02:41 PM
good question. I usually take them in to match up size. You could measure the width between holes on your pads now, if no one knows the exact number. I'm working hard on not working hard at work now or esle I would measure for you.

ack
05-08-2006, 02:54 PM
PureEvil is right: Fresh U-bolts are the way to go. The old ones will be stretched and rusty and you may find it a whole lot easier to just cut the danged things off while disassembling.

I did the entire SPOA on my Samurai solo using a Breeze SPOA kit with Doesch Tech shocks and a fresh rear shock mount system. It took me the better part of three weeks part time to do it, but with help, everything you need at hand and no interruptions, it could easily be done in a day.


The KEY to getting it right is to NOT change the pinion angle on the front axle (make the old perch and the new perch faces parallel to each other) and set the pinion angle so that there is zero angle in the third member and driveshaft at the rear yoke with the truck supported on the rear axle (not by the frame). Usually, this works out to a 13-degree angle from horizontal on the face of the third member flange if the frame is standing level.

Finally, rush out in a buying frenzy and get one of those angle measuring devices with the magnetic mount. One of these will easily help get everything into position if you are a bit anal about your setup. $12.00 at Sears or any hardware store.

Hope this helps!

fuctzookis.a.
05-08-2006, 03:13 PM
thanks for the info Ack! these are things i would have overlooked, didnt know or just ghetto-fab guessed... i did plan on keeping the front parallel(from reading a prior post) and it just makes sense. ive read that putting your spacers on the transfer case side can help clearance issues?? does it matter which side the spacers are put?

Billjohn
05-08-2006, 04:10 PM
ive read that putting your spacers on the transfer case side can help clearance issues?? does it matter which side the spacers are put?

Doesn't matter at all (except for clearance at the tranny crossmember). Adding the spacers at either end changes the geometry exactly the same.bigok

ack
05-10-2006, 10:44 AM
thanks for the info Ack! these are things i would have overlooked, didnt know or just ghetto-fab guessed... i did plan on keeping the front parallel(from reading a prior post) and it just makes sense. ive read that putting your spacers on the transfer case side can help clearance issues?? does it matter which side the spacers are put?

I put 1/2 inch spacers on the differential end of the rear driveshaft. There are lots of theoretical discussion on this subject which basically boil down to "The yokes should be as close to the flange as possible for best operation." Spacers "violate" that rule but make it possible to keep your driveshaft from falling apart and are cheap. Thus, most folks put the spacers in as opposed to lengthening the driveshaft. Plus yoke rebuilds are cheap (although t-case output bearings do cost a bit more...)

john1974
05-12-2006, 11:57 AM
Sounds like you got everything in line, me and a friend did my lift in 3 hours. but for your first time, I would recommend you take your time, and dont be afraid to ask questions on the zuk forums if you run into something your not sure of.

John

TRASHCAN
05-12-2006, 08:43 PM
if you cant afford new brake lines, i just removed mine from the little line hangers and let them flex, I dont spen money very often so I have to do dumb stuff like that all the time, usually after I tell something like that I have to pause for effect while people laugh at me. but it does work, Ive been runnin round like that for 2 years.

Mike

ohh I forgot to mention, you can get bungee cord from the local hardware store (i used Ace tru value) by the foot, tie the brake lines up close to their original place so they arent just flappin around down there, but when they flex theyll move instead of brake

john1974
05-13-2006, 09:06 PM
Or you can weld drop down brackets for the brake lines, thats what I did, I dropped the lines in front down about 4 inches.